I finally cleaned a bit the case and motorboard, rubbing a little cooked linseed oil, let it 10 minutes, then wiped off. After dried I applied natural colour wax and polished. I also waxed the black painted tonearm support and lower cowl, and they came up clean and shiny. I assembled the case, horn and tonearm. I inserted felt gaskets between the horn and the case, and also at the back cowl, to improve airtightness in the sound conduit. I cut the felt gaskets by first gluing felt squares to the metal parts, then carefully cutting out the sound windows and the external contours, so the felt can hardly be seen under the cowl.
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I adjusted carefully the position of the horn so it doesn't touch the case not the metal frame except at the back joint. The right side went dangerously near the metal frame, do I also inserted two small pieces of thick felt between the bottom of the horn and the metal frame. So now the horn touches the frame, but through these thick felt dampers.
When assembling the tonearm on its bed, I noticed that the tonearm rests on the central pivot, but I'm not sure how well sealed is the joint at the tonearm base. It seems not to touch the perimeter. I added thick grease to this joint, but I'd like to know if any of you with a Victrola IV or Vi, which are similar, can explain how the back joint is air-sealed. I suspect that this is a weak point for air leaks... I'm tempted to investigate of a thin gasket ring at the tonearm base works. If it works, it will cause some drag the tonearm movement, though...
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I've also started the exhibition soundbox, but I'm a bit frightened... Disassembly of the needlebar was difficult, for screws and nuts were there frozen... No way to remove them. I've tried spraying a petrol based unfreezing liquid, and finally I got them out.
The soundbox plate is a bit rusty, and has lost the white lettering and part of the black base paint, which is becoming rough and missing at some areas.
What is better? Must I scrub the black paint out and repaint? What kind of black painting must be used?
The rubber back is, as the diaphragm gaskets, completely ossified. I have to get new joints and back rubber.
The needlebar is non triangular cut, so I only can use round shank needles.
Still the two screws attaching the steel springs the needlebar are stuck fiercely. I cannot move them. What do you suggest? It's it better to let them stay? I really don't need to remove them...
I'm thinking about buying another exhibition, and use one of them for certain experiments (loosening the diaphragm gaskets, loosening the very tight balance springs...)
I've attached herein some photos of the machine after cleaning and reassembling.
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When reassembling the Exhibition, as the springs were very hard, I've interspeded two tiny thick natural rubber washers between them and the screw heads. THis has made the needlebar much more compliant than with the original springs alone. Let's see laer how it works...
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