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Hi everyone
I’m in the final stages of my restoration and have just crafted a leather belt. On mounting the belt the gem won’t spin like it’s to tight and restricting the spin. Is there an official size anyone can help me with?
Thanks in advance Wallace
Edison gem model A belt length
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Wallace_1903
- Victor Jr
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Sun Mar 03, 2024 12:57 pm
- Personal Text: Edison Gem Owner
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outune
- Victor IV
- Posts: 1229
- Joined: Mon Apr 26, 2010 3:13 pm
Re: Edison gem model A belt length
Hi Wallace-- I see no one has replied to your question, so thought I'd at least give my thoughts-- What I have found over nearly 48 years of collecting is that there is no "official length" for a belt. Yes-- similar machines are going to have belts that are very close in length, eg Columbia Q's. But there were several different models of most machines-- eg. Edison HOME models A, B, C, D, etc--- The type of bedplate, topworks and the tension on the mounting bolts/springs can result in slight differences.
So- I have always made my belts specific to whatever machine I am working on. I wrap a length of belt material around the pulleys, so it has no slack, but isn't tight. I then make a mark to indicate the length I need. I then cut it about ⅜" longer which allows for the overlap needed for gluing the belt. I shave off half the thickness of the belt on that ⅜" on each end so that the overlap is no thicker than the rest of the belt. A lttle Elmers, Hide Glue or other adhesive, and a small clamp is all it takes to join the ends. Just make sure to align the end with the mark that was made for the needed length.
Most Edison machines have a brass idler wheel that is spring loaded that puts gentle pressure on the belt when it is installed. Make sure the idler wheel turns freely on it's shaft and is clean and that the spring is putting gentle pressure on the idler arm. Also, the pulleys should be clean and free of any oil or grease. The pressure from the idler wheel takes up the needed slack and increases the tightness of the belt on the pulleys in order to drive the mandrel. Of course the rest of the moving parts need to be clean and adjusted so that they turn freely as well.
Anyway- I hope this helps-- There are several folks who sell belting material-- I have found that Wyatt Markus' is very flexible and easy to work with, but some people prefer the darker and slightly stiffer material others sell. Both types will give you a good job.
Brad Abell
So- I have always made my belts specific to whatever machine I am working on. I wrap a length of belt material around the pulleys, so it has no slack, but isn't tight. I then make a mark to indicate the length I need. I then cut it about ⅜" longer which allows for the overlap needed for gluing the belt. I shave off half the thickness of the belt on that ⅜" on each end so that the overlap is no thicker than the rest of the belt. A lttle Elmers, Hide Glue or other adhesive, and a small clamp is all it takes to join the ends. Just make sure to align the end with the mark that was made for the needed length.
Most Edison machines have a brass idler wheel that is spring loaded that puts gentle pressure on the belt when it is installed. Make sure the idler wheel turns freely on it's shaft and is clean and that the spring is putting gentle pressure on the idler arm. Also, the pulleys should be clean and free of any oil or grease. The pressure from the idler wheel takes up the needed slack and increases the tightness of the belt on the pulleys in order to drive the mandrel. Of course the rest of the moving parts need to be clean and adjusted so that they turn freely as well.
Anyway- I hope this helps-- There are several folks who sell belting material-- I have found that Wyatt Markus' is very flexible and easy to work with, but some people prefer the darker and slightly stiffer material others sell. Both types will give you a good job.
Brad Abell