Software for noise reduction and equalzation of 78s
- Valecnik
- Victor VI
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Software for noise reduction and equalzation of 78s
I'm looking for suggestions on the best software for noise reduction and equalization of 78s on my pc. Looking foreward to your replies. Thanks, Bruce
- MordEth
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Re: Software for noise reduction and equalzation of 78s
Are you looking for free software, or something that expects you to buy a license?
If it’s the former, you might take a look at Audacity. For the latter, there are a number of options, and it’s been a while since I’ve worked with audio on Windows, so most of the programs that I could comment on would have to be cross-platform (Windows/Mac) for them to be helpful to you.
(For example, Amadeus Pro isn’t really very useful to you, although that was what I was using to transcribe “On the Gramophone”, because it can import audio directly from Flash video [a .flv file grabbed from YouTube with the Flashgot add-on for Firefox.)
You might want to check out ClickRepair and DeNoise, although most audio editing software (such as Audacity) offers noise reduction.
If it’s the former, you might take a look at Audacity. For the latter, there are a number of options, and it’s been a while since I’ve worked with audio on Windows, so most of the programs that I could comment on would have to be cross-platform (Windows/Mac) for them to be helpful to you.
(For example, Amadeus Pro isn’t really very useful to you, although that was what I was using to transcribe “On the Gramophone”, because it can import audio directly from Flash video [a .flv file grabbed from YouTube with the Flashgot add-on for Firefox.)
You might want to check out ClickRepair and DeNoise, although most audio editing software (such as Audacity) offers noise reduction.
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Re: Software for noise reduction and equalzation of 78s
I use Magix software for my transfers, BUT whilst I find it ok to use now, to begin with it was very tricky and required a lot of fiddling around to get OK results. The instructions included with the software are (to put it politly) crap! I would say that now I am familier with it it isn't too bad...but getting to that point took a while!
I have noticed that to get effective click removal you do need to use the highest sampling rate (or is this just me?) anything toher than that and it doesn't seem to work particulalry well. As for equalising the sound, I use an old 24 band anologue graphic equiliser from the 1980's. Its not fancy but it does the job ok. I have been looking at software that does this job better and has many more control bands and have been toying with going down this route. There are web sites where you can download this kind of software for free. I haven't gotten around to doing anything about it so far as I have been distracted by other things over the past few months...hence my "dissapearance" from the forums that I belong to.
RJ
I have noticed that to get effective click removal you do need to use the highest sampling rate (or is this just me?) anything toher than that and it doesn't seem to work particulalry well. As for equalising the sound, I use an old 24 band anologue graphic equiliser from the 1980's. Its not fancy but it does the job ok. I have been looking at software that does this job better and has many more control bands and have been toying with going down this route. There are web sites where you can download this kind of software for free. I haven't gotten around to doing anything about it so far as I have been distracted by other things over the past few months...hence my "dissapearance" from the forums that I belong to.
RJ
- bart1927
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Re: Software for noise reduction and equalzation of 78s
Hi Bruce, what is your definition of "the best"? Are you looking for an easy to use program that produces adequate results, or a very complicated program that could produce superior results, but only after fiddling with it for hours? And what is the price you are willing to pay?
If money is not an issue the best thing you can buy is CEDAR. It is used by professionals, but it will set you back at least $ 12.000,-
The first program I bought was DC-Art, they have different packages, the entry level version is called DC Millennium, the full version is DC 7. Unfortunately I wasn't very satisfied with it. The click removal wasn't very effective, and hiss removal introduced all kinds of unwanted digital artefacts.
A couple of months ago I learned about ClickRepair I believe it was recommended to me by someone on the OTVMMB. The program actually consists of 3 different modules. ClickRepair, Denoise and Equalizer. The first 2 cost 40 Australian dollars each, the Equalizer is free.
This software is very easy to use and produces very good results, much, much better than DC-Art. You don't have to be a skilled audio engineer to get these good results. I use it on all my files (see audio section). I don't use the equalizer to be honest, I use a KAB Souvenir VSP to equalize.
If money is not an issue the best thing you can buy is CEDAR. It is used by professionals, but it will set you back at least $ 12.000,-
The first program I bought was DC-Art, they have different packages, the entry level version is called DC Millennium, the full version is DC 7. Unfortunately I wasn't very satisfied with it. The click removal wasn't very effective, and hiss removal introduced all kinds of unwanted digital artefacts.
A couple of months ago I learned about ClickRepair I believe it was recommended to me by someone on the OTVMMB. The program actually consists of 3 different modules. ClickRepair, Denoise and Equalizer. The first 2 cost 40 Australian dollars each, the Equalizer is free.
This software is very easy to use and produces very good results, much, much better than DC-Art. You don't have to be a skilled audio engineer to get these good results. I use it on all my files (see audio section). I don't use the equalizer to be honest, I use a KAB Souvenir VSP to equalize.
- OrthoSean
- Victor V
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Re: Software for noise reduction and equalzation of 78s
I'll second Bart's hail to Click Repair, it's absolutely wonderful and worth every cent. I use it constantly and it's very simple. I recently "cleaned up" a pile of really trashed Doo Wop 45s and it still amazes me what you can do with it for so little money.
Sean
Sean
Re: Software for noise reduction and equalzation of 78s
This is quite interesting. I too have heard good things about click repair and after it has got two resounding thumbs up from two guys who I know produce GREAT transfers I think I will be checking it out myself.
RJ
RJ
- Valecnik
- Victor VI
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Re: Software for noise reduction and equalzation of 78s
This IS quite interesting. I much appreciate the great advice from everyone. Bart could you expand a bit on your opinions re. VSP? I guess CEDAR would be a bit out of my price range. The clickrepair suite sounds sweet or should I say makes your sounds sweet?
- bart1927
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Re: Software for noise reduction and equalzation of 78s
Of course I can. The VSP is a re-equalizer and phono preamp in one. It automatically converts the stereo input to mono, and it has a mono mix control, which lets you mix the sound from both groove walls in case one groove weall is more worn than the other.Valecnik wrote:This IS quite interesting. I much appreciate the great advice from everyone. Bart could you expand a bit on your opinions re. VSP? I guess CEDAR would be a bit out of my price range. The clickrepair suite sounds sweet or should I say makes your sounds sweet?
It is also equipped with a vertical/lateral switch, so you can also play vertical records such as Edison DD's and Pathé's, without rewiring your cartridge.
It has a built-in rumble filter, and a click-pop suppressor. It works great on clicks and pops, but it's not suited to remove crackle.
It has 8 equalization curves, each one with different rolloff and turnover settings, corresponding to records from different labels and era's.
It also has a tunable Hi Cut filter and a dynamic noise filter. I don't use them very often, in fact I only use the Hi Cut filter on very noisy acoustics.
The great advantage of the VSP is that it is totally analogue, so it won't introduce digital artefacts. You just have to be careful not to overdo it with the Hi and DNL filters, otherwise your music will sound dull. And it works in real time, so it is also perfectly suited when you just want to play your records.
Re: Software for noise reduction and equalzation of 78s
Bart,
sounds like a smart piece of kit there. Isn't it ironic that we seek out an anologue piece of equipment - I guess that its the best way to avoid those annoying digital artificats that we are, no doubt, all familiar with!
RJ
sounds like a smart piece of kit there. Isn't it ironic that we seek out an anologue piece of equipment - I guess that its the best way to avoid those annoying digital artificats that we are, no doubt, all familiar with!
RJ
- Valecnik
- Victor VI
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Re: Software for noise reduction and equalzation of 78s
Bart, I think you've sold me on the VSP re-equalizer. I've found them for sale in the USA but not in Europe. Are they available in Europe too?bart1927 wrote:The VSP is a re-equalizer and phono preamp in one. It automatically converts the stereo input to mono, and it has a mono mix control, which lets you mix the sound from both groove walls in case one groove weall is more worn than the other.
It is also equipped with a vertical/lateral switch, so you can also play vertical records such as Edison DD's and Pathé's, without rewiring your cartridge.
It has a built-in rumble filter, and a click-pop suppressor. It works great on clicks and pops, but it's not suited to remove crackle.
It has 8 equalization curves, each one with different rolloff and turnover settings, corresponding to records from different labels and era's.
It also has a tunable Hi Cut filter and a dynamic noise filter. I don't use them very often, in fact I only use the Hi Cut filter on very noisy acoustics.
The great advantage of the VSP is that it is totally analogue, so it won't introduce digital artefacts. You just have to be careful not to overdo it with the Hi and DNL filters, otherwise your music will sound dull. And it works in real time, so it is also perfectly suited when you just want to play your records.
Also you do not mention anything about the type of AMP you use. I have a circa 1960 Fischer 500C tube amp. Would you anticipate any compatibility issues?
Cheers,
Bruce