Barona tone arm

[tcmeeno]

Thanks for the information on the tone arm websites. I got interested in how to fix this so I took it out to the shop today and fixed it using epoxy metal, stainless steel wire and of course Bondo. I took pictures of the process if anyone is interested.
Thanks again for the help.
Terry

[Neophone]

Terry,

It looks pretty darn good! Looking forward to seeing how it works out. Good Job! Reminds me I've got a few projects like that been sitting on the back burner too long!

Regards,
John

[OrthoFan]

Looks like you've done an EXCELLENT job! Before installing the tonearm, it's a good idea to unscrew the pivot ring (or whatever it's called) that joins the two sections of the tonearm together, and apply some grease around the threads. This will ensure an air-tight seal, necessary to maximize bass performance.

Also, when you reinstall the tonearm bracket, itself, to the cabinet, make sure that is also sealed with some grease to prevent air leaks. (I'm not sure, for this type of tonearm bracket, whether a felt ring was used as a coupling between the bottom of the bracket, and the hole. If there is an empty recessed area, that's where the felt washer would have been installed.)

Other areas to check for air leaks include the caste-iron elbow which runs between the bottom of the tonearm and the horn. You can check this by removing the back panel of the Victrola. Make sure the fittings at both ends are solid.

You may also want to double check the condition of the horn, which you can inspect by removing the grill. (Remove the motor-board, unscrew the four screws holding the grill in place, and then gently slide the grill upwards.) If you notice any areas of separation in the wood's surface, or at the edges, these can be repaired with caulk or wood glue.)

While some of this may seem nit-picky, an air-tight tone chamber is necessary in order to get the full performance--especially bass--from this type of Victrola.

[estott]

I've never quite understood why Victor went back to this type of bracket (with the pivot pin at the top) after using a different style on the Credenza. Was there something wrong with the bottom bearing style?

[OrthoFan]

I've never quite understood why Victor went back to this type of bracket (with the pivot pin at the top) after using a different style on the Credenza. Was there something wrong with the bottom bearing style?

Based on what I remember reading in the series of articles Tom Rhodes wrote for the New Amberola Graphic back in the 1980s/early 1990s, the bottom mount bracket imposed more drag on the tonearm, especially because of the grease packed felt gasket, so they switched back to the earlier design. I remember that both my Consolette and Credenza were fitted with the bottom mount bracket, and it was a PITA to get the adjustment exactly right--smooth sideways movement, but with no detectable shake.

[estott]

Odd- my Credenza bottom mount arm seems to work just fine, I just cleaned and relubed it. Either I'm unobservant or just lucky.

[OrthoFan]

Odd- my Credenza bottom mount arm seems to work just fine, I just cleaned and relubed it. Either I'm unobservant or just lucky.

There's one thing I've learned through sad experience--if it seems to work okay, leave it alone! I remember with both the Credenza and Consolette, there was a slight shake, and I thought I'd easily correct it by tweaking the adjustment of the support screws. About 10 hours later, I finally got it "just right."

I've shown far more restraint with my 4-40, which fortunately, had an intact tonearm bracket. (I did try to re-do the damaged cabinet finish, however, and after four tries have decided I've no talent, whatsoever, as a cabinet restorer. I'll leave it to the next owner to undo the damage I did.)

[tcmeeno]

Thanks every body!! I get the paint dry, build a pivot pin and try to adjust the arm ...it moves with great friction and just when it seems okay and working it hangs up. Finally I decide the pivot pin may not be centered and consider redrilling and retapping. Low and behold when turned it upside down and moved it, out popped the original pin ... probably stuck in the base bearing for years. Now it's as smooth as glass. I removed the two screws to take the base apart but the pieces were too stiff to budge and this old metal is very unforgiving!!
Well onto mounting it in the Barona; just hope the reproducer is good. Also I will check for air leaks.
Thanks again for the solid advice.
Terry

[phonojim]

You've done a very nice job on that tone arm support...never thought of doing it that way. When I bought my 8-30 the support was broken and, at that time no one was making them. Well, Ron Sitko brought out his brass supports later that year so I bought one of those. Meanwhile I used an early-style arm from a Borgia. It worked very well but I wanted the original style. I think the problems with that style arm are that bearing adjustment is so touchy and dried grease/dirt in the bearings will cause much more drag than with the overhead pivot system.

Jim

[tcmeeno]

I agree Jim, this works very well.. almost effortlessly. I just put it on the Barona, found a reproducer on a portable my cousin gave me, fired it up and am impressed. The support arm is not quite factory original as I used a hardened steel threaded pivot pin. The threading at 32 tpi allowed me to set the arm just right. It does not need a set screw as the pivot pin turns with nice resistance. I used a wrapping of stainless fine wire embedded in the epoxy metal to rebuild the pivot. It should last for a long time hopefully.
Terry