STANDARD TM Model X2--need advice, information

[toydk]

I just acquired a Standard Talking Machine X2 and need some information/advice.

The single spring appears to be in good shape. I have cleaned and relubricated it and it seems to work smoothly. However, I really have to crank it up about 50 turns to have enough tension to get through an average record and I worry I may break it. I have cleaned and relubricated it. Could it be too weak and need replacement or is this customary. I repaired the governor and it now works well.

Then there is the speed control rod. From what I have read and seen online I should have a plunger for speed control and to turn the phonograph on/off. As you can see from the pictures there is a bolt instead. Yes, I can use this to turn it on and off and get it to the approximate speed but is cumbersome. Are there replacement/reproduction plungers out there?

And as you can see I have no top cover for the cabinet. Maybe I can find one online eventually or make one.

I really like this little machine. It is in pretty good shape after rebuilding the sound box and the governor.

Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Dean

[Curt A]

The plunger/speed control should be easy to find, since it is a Columbia part. As far as the motor board is concerned, there shouldn't be a problem to make one or you might find one from a junker. If you decide to make one, you should look for a piece of 1920s era quartersawn oak or at least oak with a tight grain... modern oak does not have the same appearance. A picture of the motorboard would give you the molding profile, which can be duplicated with a router and the correct bit or bits. If you don't find an original motorboard, look for cabinet parts from a junked upright machine or a piece of inexpensive period furniture to use. Someone on the Forum may be able to help you with both the speed control and the wood for a motorboard... Good luck.

[jboger]

Your horn looks to be in very nice shape, as does the rest of the machine. I have this model. The top is a square piece of wood with four round-head wood screws to secure it in place. It is about as simple as possible with no edge molding; just squared off. In fact, the top is a thin core of pine (?) with a piece of oak veneer glued to either side. On the edge you can plainly see the composition of the top, that is, the three layers. You should be able to spot the location of the four originals holes. You might want to make a temporary replacement top of oak. Just be very careful to line up the positions of the new screws. No point taping new holes; just use the existing holes.

[Curt A]

Your horn looks to be in very nice shape, as does the rest of the machine. I have this model. The top is a square piece of wood with four round-head wood screws to secure it in place. It is about as simple as possible with no edge molding; just squared off. In fact, the top is a thin core of pine (?) with a piece of oak veneer glued to either side. On the edge you can plainly see the composition of the top, that is, the three layers. You should be able to spot the location of the four originals holes. You might want to make a temporary replacement top of oak. Just be very careful to line up the positions of the new screws. No point taping new holes; just use the existing holes.

I'm glad you reminded me of that motorboard... it appears to be just a piece of oak veneered plywood, if I recall correctly. Easy to make...

[toydk]

Thanks for the information!

Is there just one size plunger for these early Columbia/Standard disc phonographs? If someone could measure their Standard plunger and post it that would be great.

Also, is it usual to have to crank the spring so tight to get a full 10" record played?

[Curt A]

"Also, is it usual to have to crank the spring so tight to get a full 10" record played?"

Have you cleaned the motor to remove the old hardened grease, especially in the spring barrel? If not, that would be a good starting point, then re-lube all of the gears and the spring...

[phonojim]

It does need to be fully wound to play a full 10" record and have a very little bit to spare. The motor is the same as that used in the Columbia AU and the Standard AA. I don't believe they ever made a 12" Standard record, and with good reason. I bought an X2 at Stanton's this spring. When I first wound it up, it wasn't running very well so I oiled everything in sight. I also put oil between the spring leaves then wound it up and let it down several times. This process softens the old grease and makes it flow again. The motor now runs silently and will play a full record with room to spare.
The top board is solid oak, about 5/16" thick and is plain sawn oak, not quarter sawn. The whole cabinet is made of plain sawn oak. Remember, these machines were made cheaply as possible to be sold to companies who gave them away as premiums.

Jim

[phonojim]

I finally got a chance to check out the length of the brake and speed control. They are as follows: total length of outer barrel and knob is 3 1/16"; total length of brake plunger and knob is 3-13/16". The spring is 1" long and about ⅜" in diameter. The plunger and barrel appear to mot come apart, at least not easily so you would purchase these as a complete unit. The top board is 10-⅞" square and ¼" thick. Hope this helps.

Jim

[toydk]

Very useful information. Thanks.

[JerryVan]

"...From what I have read and seen online I should have a plunger for speed control and to turn the phonograph on/off..."


The plunger is for the brake and the knob that you turn is for the speed control. Not the other way round.