Re-gilding a tonearm?

[estott]

I have a 1926 Credenza with some large worn spots in the gilding, right next to the reproducer. Does anyone do replating / refinishing on these? I'm in no hurry, but the base metal has gotten quite dark.

[Zeppy]

I had all the parts to my XVI professonally replated by a guy just out of DC. Cost me a fortune though. The tone arm alone was well over $100.

[estott]

I thought it would be pretty pricy- and I'd have to get the whole thing done since the gooseneck wouldn't match the rest of the arm if it was replated. I think I might take it to a frame restorer or a sign painter and have some gold leaf laid over the wear- it should hold up if I don't handle it much.

[Zeppy]

I'd have to check the reciept, but I think it may have been close to $200 for the tone arm. And that was several years ago before the price of gold went through the roof.

I was looking at getting the actual equipment to do the plating myself (something that I can actually do imersion plating rather than just the wet swab). I think I saw it for around $300, plus the price the chemicals. But my fear is how good of a job could I do, and how many parts would I have to plate before it becomes worthwhile?

Oh the decisions one must make.

[DrGregC]

Check with Steve Farmer(farmerized1@msn.com). He is the best. Steve can handle the most complex restoration. His work is exceptional and he is very fair with his pricing.

[wjw]

While pondering re-plating, you can buff the thing to a nice mirror polish and spray a clear coat on it. Won't hurt a thing, looks great, and you might get used to it!

[estott]

While pondering re-plating, you can buff the thing to a nice mirror polish and spray a clear coat on it. Won't hurt a thing, looks great, and you might get used to it!

I wouldn't do that in this case- the main part of the tonearm is just fine and the gooseneck has more that 50% of the gold intact. In my experience polished brass with a clear coat won't match the remaining satin gold plate.

It is probably best that I leave it alone and handle it so as to not wear off any remaining finish.

[Valecnik]

I had all the parts to my XVI professonally replated by a guy just out of DC. Cost me a fortune though. The tone arm alone was well over $100.

I'd like to see some "before and after" pics if that's possible.

[Silvertone]

You don't necessarily have to re-plate the tone arm. I have a few NOS Tone Arm Crooks. They are old dealer stock, and were the crooks supplied by Victor to fix the tracking error problem in the early Orthophonics. The gold crooks are Victor part number 21493A GP and fit the 7-3, 7-25, 7-30, 8-1, 8-2, 8-4, 8-12, 8-30, 9-15, and 14-1. These parts are brand new in the original Victor wrappers with the part number printed on the wrapper, and the gold is unworn. They should match your tone arm perfectly for color and gloss. I also have a few in nickel and antique bronze. For details of Victor's recall of the crooks, see The Sound Box for March, 2005.

If you have an interest in one of the crooks, you can message me privately.

[JohnM]

Re: the title of this thread --

Re-plating and "re-gilding" are two entirely different things! 'Gilding' is the application of gold leaf (or any other metallic leaf) and it is adhered by an adhesive 'size'. You wouldn't want to 'gild' a tone arm! A picture frame or a sign, yes . . . but a phono part, no!