Reproducer removal problem

[callron]

I have a Home 'D' 2/4 combo with the horizontal carriage. The Reproducer is the N86 (4 min) type and it is "frozen" in the carriage. I've tried WD40, heat, light pressure, etc., to no avail. It appears to be pot metal so I'm reluctant to try prying or forcing it for fear of breaking.

Since this reproducer is larger in diameter than the 'C' on my Standard, what 2 min reproducer will fit this carriage?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[rodpickett]

You might try putting the piece in the freezer overnight to see if there is enough contraction to safely remove the reproducer.

Any traditional Edison reproducer, such as a Model C will work, if the carriage is fitted with a Reducer Ring, often found on eBay or one of the major part suppliers.

[edisonclassm]

Usually they are not that tight in the carriage so remove the carriage from the machine, turn it upside down and place on a vice where the jaws are open enough to clear the reproducer. Place or tape some thin cardboard from the back of a notepad onto the vice so you don't damage the paint on the carriage and proceed to tap the reproducer out using a wider ended punch. Tap one side then the opposite side easing it out of the carriage. Once out, the OD of the reproducer where it fits into the carriage should be turned in a lathe to the proper diameter. This also has to be done carefully and correctly to avoid damaging the top housing of the reproducer.

[Jerry B.]

I'd recommend an reproduction aluminum reducer for your C reproducer. It's one of those instances where a reproduction is better than a pot metal original.

Jerry Blais

[edisonclassm]

Look for a good Model-O reproducer and sell your N to offset the cost. Make sure the Model-O has an iron top housing and not a Pot metal one like the N

[52089]

I have a Home 'D' 2/4 combo with the horizontal carriage. The Reproducer is the N86 (4 min) type and it is "frozen" in the carriage. I've tried WD40, heat, light pressure, etc., to no avail. It appears to be pot metal so I'm reluctant to try prying or forcing it for fear of breaking.

Since this reproducer is larger in diameter than the 'C' on my Standard, what 2 min reproducer will fit this carriage?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Your N56 reproducer is uncommon and was not actually designed for your Home. It was sold specifically to owners of the Amberola V and VI (that's where the 5-6 comes from) so that they could play wax Amberols. It has a different design than the "garden variety" "N" and should be handled with care. If you are not able to easily remove it yourself, please consider sending to one of the pros who can do it for you.

[JohnM]

WD-40 is 90% marketing and 10% effective as anything but but a rust-preventative. It is fish oil in a naphtha carrier. When the naphtha rapidly evaporates, you are left with a gummy residue that oxidizes rapidly to become a rust-resistant coating. It is NOT an effective penetrating lube. Buy a can of PB Blaster it Kroil if you want a real penetrating lubricant. Throw the stinky WD-40 in the trash.

[HisMastersVoice]

WD-40 is 90% marketing and 10% effective as anything but but a rust-preventative. It is fish oil in a naphtha carrier. When the naphtha rapidly evaporated, you are left with a gummy residue that oxidizes rapidly to become a rust-resistant coating. It is NOT an effective penetrating lube. Buy a can of PB Bladter it Kroil if you want a real penetrating lubricant. Throw the stinky WD-40 in the trash.

Agreed! PB Blaster is magical stuff. I don’t even own a can of WD-40. It smells awful and doesn’t really work as well as more specialized penetrating oils, lubricants, and rust inhibitors. Also, the fish oil thing is a myth, FYI.

[edisonclassm]

Penetrating oils are not that effective in this application. Like I said before, carefully tap out the reproducer using a wide blunt punch tapping all around the circumference of the top housing. I've done hundreds of these over the years and have never found one that didn't come out by this method intact and undamaged. It is sad that so many of these units have been mangled by would-be repairman unnecessarily if only the proper protocol was employed. Once they get them out they proceed to mangle them more by filing down the OD of the top housing. Looks like crap! If you don't have a lathe to turn it down, find someone who does and do it right to preserve the integrity of the piece.
FYI-Early pre-1930 die cast matals suffer from what is known as Inter-granular corrosion causing the metal to swell and distort. This, the die casting industry discovered, was caused by lead contaminants in the lubricants used for the dies.

[Lucius1958]

Look for a good Model-O reproducer and sell your N to offset the cost. Make sure the Model-O has an iron top housing and not a Pot metal one like the N

Seconded. A good Model O may be hard to find, but it's worth it.

Bill