Missing finish vs dirty finish

[GregVTLA]

How does one tell if there is dirt and debris on top of the finish, or if you're all the way back to wood. The finish on my L-door is pretty clouded, and a bit of goop + steel wool has greatly improved that, but I'm not sure if it's actually got finish on it still.

[GregVTLA]

Before cleaning:

[Jwb88]

That looks great. I usually do the same, goop and very fine steel wool, but I usually go too far. I strongly caution against doing too much because it's very possible to go through the finish. If you do on flat areas it will often look flaky because tiny bits of finish are missing following the crazing pattern most old finishes have.

I can't really tell how much finish is or is not present but it looks good. If it's really dull and you think there isn't much of a finish, it's always possible to go over the whole thing with very thin shellac, but it might not be worth it. I'm learning to appreciate old finishes more. Whatever is left often has more character than a refinish unless a ton of time and work is spent.

[GregVTLA]

I agree with that! This was mostly a proactive topic, as I had already done it to one side but if I was causing damage, I wouldn't do it to the other. I kinda like a little bit of the "worn" look. At least this guy hadn't spent time in the garage or attic, because then it'd be looking a lot less pretty.

Greg

[briankeith]

Goop? I always use GoJo or Cotton Cleaner?

[OrthoSean]

Goop is basically the same as Gojo.

Sean

[CDBPDX]

Usually, there will be crazing on the shellac, especially on the Victor mahogany finish. Look closely at the surface. If there is crazing, there is shellac that can be polished. I use Howard Restor-A-Shine to great effect, an excellent polish.

[Lucius1958]

My go-to technique for worn finishes is a type of French-polish, using a cloth pad, thinned shellac, and a dab of oil on the pad to lubricate it. It works well on flat surfaces, and you can slowly build up the finish over several sessions.

- Bill

[GregVTLA]

Usually, there will be crazing on the shellac, especially on the Victor mahogany finish. Look closely at the surface. If there is crazing, there is shellac that can be polished. I use Howard Restor-A-Shine to great effect, an excellent polish.

That seems to be what I’ve got. Thanks for clearing this up!

[larryh]

That looks great. I usually do the same, goop and very fine steel wool, but I usually go too far. I strongly caution against doing too much because it's very possible to go through the finish. If you do on flat areas it will often look flaky because tiny bits of finish are missing following the crazing pattern most old finishes have.

I can't really tell how much finish is or is not present but it looks good. If it's really dull and you think there isn't much of a finish, it's always possible to go over the whole thing with very thin shellac, but it might not be worth it. I'm learning to appreciate old finishes more. Whatever is left often has more character than a refinish unless a ton of time and work is spent.

So long and the old finish is still mostly on it the shellac is well worth the effort. If one has not used it much it can be trying to get on right. Main thing is to do each side with the machine flat so as to avoid runs as much as possible. Then a tinned coat of half shellac and half denatured alcohol brushed on carefully but quickly can do wonders after you rub it down when well dried a few days. If one does get a few runs usually sanding carefully and applying another coat when dry can hide the run pretty well. I can't tell by the photo either, the photos of the after look as though a light coat of finish is still in place but the before look like its gone in large patches?

Larry