The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

OldRestorer wrote:

estott wrote:If you can do a proper job then refinish the drum- this could also give you the option of having the missing tinplate cover reproduced.

I don't understand. I don't see anything missing.

Check this post from WAY back when your machine first appeared on this forum: http://forum.talkingmachine.info/viewto ... phonograph+

oooooooh,
Momma like...
Im going to have to make one now.

As for the finish, I figured it out I think... I decided that no matter what the finish had to be fixed so I decided to try something. I used #0000 wool and mineral spirits to lightly sand the drum section by section. It actually worked! It is not as light as the original but I stained the wood darker to match. So it is not so dark that it hides the grain but it is not too light wih a big contrast from the drum.
I am very happy with the results.
Next is the nickel plating while I wait for Ron Sitko to make me a spring!
What do you guys think?

Out standing.... Looks great. You did a good job closly matching as close as you could without doing some damage. Tom

Good job on the finish!

Bill

Looking at the photos this morning I feel that they need a little more matching... I will strip the columns and give the barrel a bit more sanding. The base can also use a little darkening...
Now all I need is the new main spring, set of governors, The nickel plating and to make a lid.
I dont personally like the lid but it is original and will protect the table from dust.

Thanks for the comments
Kirk

How hard would it be to veneer the drum ??? Also there are places that make decals or wraps that could be used. It would not be authentic but you might get a good match.. There must be people that can wood grain paint out there. I do not know the cost though. Tom

Woodgrain painting is easy enough with the really great rocker tools they sell. I could press on the drum a bit when painting to flatten it a little and it would probably look nice but I am trying to save the original right now. I have a great woodgrain glue back paper thin veneer but again, not original.

I got inundated with jobs this week so I have not made any progress.

Kirk

For woodgraining an oak finish, a rocker tool will not work. A rocker makes a large grain effect similar to pine, while oak and mahogany have a tight straight "combed" looking grain. The proper tool to create this effect is a metal woodgrain check roller, like this one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Check-Graining-R ... B00CR2XZAQ

If you want to make up a new lid that would be a great place to practice wood graining

What about hydrodipping?

https://www.google.com/search?biw=1024& ... efYTNUehgg

You can control color matching damn close if not spot on with your base paint. What I usually do is spray some sample pieces with different colors and shade of paint then lay a sample of the film over it and compare it to what I am matching.

I use this technique for grain matching steering wheels and shifter knobs to burl and Macassar ebony dashes on classic Mercedes cars. It works really well when you get the technique down. The tin top won't be a problem but the barrel (should you choose to redo) is trickier.

I actually line the bathtub in our spare bathroom with heavy plastic (a drop cloth works well with painter's tape) then fill the tub and use that.

If you're interested I can direct you to some tutorials.