Amberola 30 Restoration

[Frank W]

I am beginning a restoration of an Amerola 30. My first task is to take it apart to clean and inspect each piece. I have managed to get everything removed from the base plate with the exception of the center shaft on the top side that holds the cylinder. Image attached. Does this screw into the cast post or should attempt to drive it out. I have loosened the nut on the end.

Thanks for the help...I will have lots of images and questions as this process progresses. By the way, is there an exploded drawing the names all the components somewhere? I want to learn and use the proper nomenclature.

[Mormon S]

I would recommend leaving the shaft on there, this was also the case on my first amberola 30, and attempting to remove it would increase the chances of damaging it.

As for the name of parts, there are a few basic parts to every or most cylinder phonographs. I'm listing the most basic parts here:

In the motor there is a large spring called the Main Spring, which is wound up and is what drives the motor.

The spring is contained inside a Spring Barell, which holds it in place and is what spins by the energy of the spring

[phonogfp]

Here's even more help:

https://www.antiquephono.org/glossary-o ... rminology/

George P.

[Frank W]

Thank you for the help... and the glossary of terms. It will help me with my communication.

The mandrel shaft is not bent or broken. I will leave it in and work around it. All of the removed components have been cleaned and inspected. Now for the reassembly. What lubricants are recommended? It appeared that the previous owner used a black lithium like grease on everything.

[Mormon S]

Thank you for the help... and the glossary of terms. It will help me with my communication.

The mandrel shaft is not bent or broken. I will leave it in and work around it. All of the removed components have been cleaned and inspected. Now for the reassembly. What lubricants are recommended? It appeared that the previous owner used a black lithium like grease on everything.

Well, there are 2 types of lubrication needed, grease for the Main Spring, and oil for everything else. The best type of oil to use is typewriter oil/sewing machine oil. 3 in 1 oil gums up over time.

The "best" mainspring grease is a controversial topic here, I would recommend reading on older posts about it like this one:

http://forum.talkingmachine.info/viewto ... f=2&t=7944

Also, it is more than likely that the grease from the spring has spread across the motor over the years

Martin

[Frank W]

Thanks Martin,

I am a horologist by trade and have clock oil available. I have always thought it was similar to sawing machine oil. If something finer is needed, I have watch oil.

After cleaning and drying all the parts, I am now considering waxing the steel to prevent rust. I use a wax that is high in Cordoba on a clock's steel parts. Where a lubricant will be in contact with the steel, I don't wax figuring the lubricant will do a preventative job. I am not repainting the main plate; however, one cleaned, I do plan on applying a good coat of wax.

Thoughts and comments?

[phonogfp]

One clarification: grease is best for the first gears off the mainspring. Clock oil will be fine for the lighter gears and governor. With your background, the physics will be familiar to you.

Waxing the unfinished steel parts should be unnecessary, but waxing the bedplate won't hurt.

Good luck!

George P.

[Mormon S]

Thanks Martin,

I am a horologist by trade and have clock oil available. I have always thought it was similar to sawing machine oil. If something finer is needed, I have watch oil.

After cleaning and drying all the parts, I am now considering waxing the steel to prevent rust. I use a wax that is high in Cordoba on a clock's steel parts. Where a lubricant will be in contact with the steel, I don't wax figuring the lubricant will do a preventative job. I am not repainting the main plate; however, one cleaned, I do plan on applying a good coat of wax.

Thoughts and comments?

I dont think waxing parts is necessary. I dont know much about waxing bedplates, but I think there are better options. For the bedplate paint I recommend using Meguiers Scrath X 2.0. You can find this at auto part stores, it's used to polish cars, and work really well for cleaning and polishing the black bedplate "paint".

Martin

[VanEpsFan1914]

Also,

You could use "Nu Finish" car polish. I did a 1920s GE "Whiz" fan with it the other day and am currently chilling in front of it now. If it brightened up the weird green paint on that old fan it ought to make a bedplate shine like new.

[Frank W]

I have my Amberola 30's restoration almost complete. I am hunting down the last couple of screws and nuts.

Here is my question for today: What does the fastener look like that secures the front of the horn in the case? The post on the front of the horn is threaded. The slot in the mount in the case is considerably larger than one might expect.

Can you show me what it looks like?