Need advice on reproducer dissassembly

[Wes K]

Now, the upper rubber gasket broke out so the diaphragm is loose in the reproducer. BUT, the bezel will not come loose. This is all on the lateral side. If I try to pry it loose, I cannot press up on it from the inside because that would be pressing against the mica diaphragm and, I do not want to do that.

Anybody have any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Pot metal, flaking nickel plating, or corrosion, something's holding in place.

Some of these were pot metal, from what I understand, if yours is, and the bezel will not come out, you may have to get another bezel and sacrifice the one currently stuck in the body.
Before that:
Try some penetrating oil or kerosene around the perimeter and let is soak, then go slow with a long screw driver prying with the blade under the bezel at the top (about 12 o'clock) with the screwdriver pressing down on the opposite side( outside edge of pivot lugs). Keep in mind the ring will have to come out at the top first, since it fits in under the pivot lugs. Once it is out, lay it on a flat surface, like a piece of glass to see how flat it is. If it's warped, replace it. If it's flat, go over the edge with some Emory cloth, and clean the rebate in the body with some scotch-brite or a brass bristled brush.

[Marty Bufalini]

Wes,

Thanks again. I'll give it a try. No part of the reproducer seems to be pot metal. Will penetrating oil hurt the diaphragm?

[mick_vt]

no experience to draw on but it strikes me that you could tap the holes that the screws go through in the bezel and then add a machine screw into each so allowing you to grab hold of the bezel to pull on it. you would need a bottoming tap of an appropriate size

[Wes K]

Wes,

Thanks again. I'll give it a try. No part of the reproducer seems to be pot metal. Will penetrating oil hurt the diaphragm?

Penetrating oil and kerosene will not affect mica.

[Marty Bufalini]

Wes, thanks. I'll give it a try.

[Marty Bufalini]

Well, I got the bezel out and the old cracking rubber gasket -- thanks all.
But, before I continue, is there any way to restore the gold hue on the inside of the reproducer body? The part under the diaphragm that can be seen under the diaphragm.

And, what size rubber gasket should it take?

Thanks,

Marty

[Lucius1958]

Well, I got the bezel out and the old cracking rubber gasket -- thanks all.
But, before I continue, is there any way to restore the gold hue on the inside of the reproducer body? The part under the diaphragm that can be seen under the diaphragm.

And, what size rubber gasket should it take?

Thanks,

Marty

You could use something like "Rub 'N' Buff", a metallic wax finish: since it's not going to be touched once the diaphragm is replaced.

Bill

[Wes K]

Ron Sitko sells 2 different sizes of the white tubing, I used the larger size. Using the smaller size might make it easier to put back together, but the larger size seemed a better match for the original gaskets.

[Marty Bufalini]

Wes and Bill, thanks.

I Googled "rub and buff" and there are several color choices.

Bill, if you (or anyone else) have used this before, which one would match the Brunswick color and would it work on the tone are, etc?

Thanks

[Lucius1958]

Wes and Bill, thanks.

I Googled "rub and buff" and there are several color choices.

Bill, if you (or anyone else) have used this before, which one would match the Brunswick color and would it work on the tone are, etc?

Thanks

I'm not certain about the Brunswick color; but I've used the "Antique Gold" on a couple of other pieces to good effect.

On a tone arm, it depends whether that area gets handled often.

Bill