Cabinet lock not working

[ottersea]

I have a VV XI that I am restoring. I had all the hardware replated. Now I have a cabinet cover lock that does not work. In the open position I can turn it ¼ turn ccw and it stops. The lock rises but on the bottom side there are two ears that keep it from rotating further. From that position i can turn back cw ¼ to remove the key and it will go another ½ Cw but then cannot remove the key. Also when all the way ccw the locking ears do not come out. Any ideas? Thanks.
Thanks

[Jerry B.]

Are you using the original Victor "V" key? I'd probably remove the lock assembly from the cabinet so it doesn't get in the locked position and cause grief. Once out I would lubricate the lock with graphite and play with it. Jerry B.

[JerryVan]

How did they re-plate the lock? Was the whole lock assembly put in the plating tank? Plating adds thickness. If the whole assembly was plated, then its parts may not operate with the same clearances that it once had.

[ottersea]

How did they re-plate the lock? Was the whole lock assembly put in the plating tank? Plating adds thickness. If the whole assembly was plated, then its parts may not operate with the same clearances that it once had.

The entire lock was plated. Most likely why it is jammed up. The lock seems to operate smoothly but will only turn ¼ turn ccw. At that point there are ears on the inner mechanism that keeps it from going any further.

[AZ*]

I have a number of Victrolas and HMVs with cabinet locks with keys. I NEVER lock them for fear they will seize in the locked position. I have seen several Victrolas for sale that were damaged when someone attempted to open them with a pry bar. I don't know if the locks seized or maybe they just lost the key.

It's not worth the risk to me to trust a 100 year-old lock. Yours is not the first post on this forum asking for help with a cabinet lock that doesn't work properly.

I do agree that the plating may have affected the lock's performance.