Beginning Restoration

[Brad]

Scooter's post about his C200 restoration got me thinking that someone who is new to the hobby may benefit from a simple restoration example that they can do without fear of doing something bad to the machine.

This example assumes you have yourself the attic/basement/garage found machine that is in working order but looks a little worse for wear. The pictures below chronicle the process.

The process is fairly simple and requires a day to a weekend, some reasonably supplies, and elbow grease. Others will recommend different materials and steps, but all pretty much achieve the same end. What I describe below is the method I use and I have had very good luck with it.

Step#

1 - Remove all the hardware.

2 - Clean the cabinet with Kotton Klenser and 0000 steel wool. Brush the Kotton Cleanser on liberally and let set for about 5 - 10 minutes, Rub with the grain with the 0000 steel wool. Most of the dirt on the finish is actually dirt and grim suspended in old layers of oil/wax. The Kotton Klenser will quickly disolve this build up and the steel wool will speed up it's removal. After, wipe down thoroughly with paper towels.

3 - If the finish is in rough shape or crazed, lay the cabinet on it's side (I use a pair of saw horses with towels covering them so I can work standing up. Pour a liberal amount mineral spirits on the cabinet and with a sanding block made up from a small block of rigid foam (couuld use the blue or pink construction insulation or a block of styrofoam) wrapped with 600 grit wet/dry sand paper, gently sand with the grain. As the finish gets smoother, the effort required with increase. The secret here is to not try and sand through the finish, but smooth it. Carefully sand the non flat pieces carefully by hand. Dry each side with paper towels.

4 - After sanding, wipe down with paper towels and allow to dry (it may take several hours to dry).

5 - If you have any bare wood, now would be a good time to rub a little matching stain into the bare wood. (sometimes a little Olde English oil will help cover some bad spots) Many machines will come with little spatters of white paint. For some reason, little spatters of white paint are attracted to phonographs. Many of these will come right off with the steel wool step above. If not, don't try too hard or you will rub right through the finish. For the little spatters that are left over, take a black Sharpie permant marker and color the spatters. They will disappear.

6 - The final step is to apply a layer of wax. This is your call as to what wax to use. I find the Howards Feed n' Wax, or equivalent to give good results.

7 - You can clean up the hardware gently with steel wool. I personally like some patina on the hardware so I typically do not do much here other than general cleaning and lubrication.

8 - In this example the turntable felt was too far gone, so I replaced it as the last step.

I have less than $75 in the machine, a few missing parts, and the cleanning supplies.

[Fredrik]

Remove the hardware. And look, this is a cabinet signed by the cabinet maker. Thank you Mr. Homer

And not any Homer: it says "Homer S". Oh my - your cabinet was built by Homer Simpson!

Fredrik

[coyote]

Brad:

Thanks for the tutorial. Could someone comment about cleaning over decals? Usually this isn't necessary on an internal horn machine since the finish more often than not looks decent on the enclosed parts. I'm thinking more along the lines of Edison cylinder machines. I've always been afraid to Kotton Klense over an original Edison decal, but then you end up with a darker area around it. Suggestions?

[Brad]

I have done this to both floor and edison cylinder machines and have never had any issues with the decals, HOWEVER, I do not steel wool over the decals and just use some gentle elbow grease and paper towels in those areas.

I prefer the patina and look of some age in my machines so a perfect_mint_not_a_spec_on_it result is not what I go for. Scratchs, dents, and wear are perfectly acceptible to me.

From what I have heard, Kotten Klenser is used frequently by museums. I have never seen it damage anything original.

Others can comment if they have had issues, I have not.

[MordEth]

From what I have heard, Kotten Klenser is used frequently by museums. I have never seen it damage anything original.

Could anyone comment as to whether it is preferable to use Kotten Klenser or the non-abrasive GOJO (not the stuff with the pumice)?

I’ve heard good things about both products, so I figured that I might ask, both so I know, and for the benefit of other members and guests who might read this thread.

— MordEth

[Zeppy]

From what I have heard, Kotten Klenser is used frequently by museums. I have never seen it damage anything original.

Could anyone comment as to whether it is preferable to use Kotten Klenser or the non-abrasive GOJO (not the stuff with the pumice)?

I’ve heard good things about both products, so I figured that I might ask, both so I know, and for the benefit of other members and guests who might read this thread.

— MordEth

There is a camp that very anti-gojo, and I recall on a prior board there was quite a heated discussion about the subject. There is some question about whether gojo does damage to the finish. I've enver had any bad luck or issues with it, but some folks can get quite empassioned on the subject

[estott]

Lovely job- that's one of the nicer Grafonola styles and I'm considering buying one like it. I have only one criticism- on their better Grafonolas like that Columbia used green Velvet on the turntable, not felt.

[Brad]

Lovely job- that's one of the nicer Grafonola styles and I
m considering buying one like it. I have only one criticism- on their better Grafonolas like that Columbia used green Velvet on the turntable, not felt.

The felt (velvet) was in real bad shape and needed replacing. I have since learned what felt actually is and at the time thought that what was on the turntable was worn out felt, however, I agree with you. Though, when I play it, I can't see the felt and the records don't complain

Now, where to find moss green velvet?

I also agree, that this is a very nice cabinet style.

[larryh]

I have used Kotten Klenser on a lot of things. One thing I have noticed though is it can take a very long time for the finish to dry again. On some shellac cabinets and even lacquer ones I have had them feel sticky for months afterwards which is a bit of a issue with me. Usually they dry sufficiently to then do that sanding and a coat of finish or wax depending on what your trying to achieve. It will remove a lot of dirt and often white spots or rings will come off when cleaning it. I had some shellac to curdle on the doors to a brunswick after using it, I don't know if it was a reaction or a fluke, it didn't do it on the rest of the cabinet?

[Brad]

I have not experienced the lingering stickyness. There was raging debate on the old board about Gojo doing this.

Thinking about it, I wonder if the lingering stickyness is just residue Klenser/Gojo in partially softened wax/oil/dirt? That is, not all the wax/oil/dirt has been removed and what remains is softened by remaining Klenser.

An interesting experiment would be to try another application of the klenser when it is noticed that stickyness remains.