Victor data plates

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gramophone-georg
Victor VI
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Victor data plates

Post by gramophone-georg »

Inquiring minds want to know... has anyone here ever restored a worn aluminum data plate as is found on a Victor V with very shallow embossing- (almost non- existent)- and if so, how?

Does anyone reproduce these plates?
"He who dies with the most shellac wins"- some nutty record geek

I got PTSD from Peter F's avatar

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gramophone-georg
Victor VI
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Re: Victor data plates

Post by gramophone-georg »

Anyone?
"He who dies with the most shellac wins"- some nutty record geek

I got PTSD from Peter F's avatar

Phonofreak
Victor VI
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Re: Victor data plates

Post by Phonofreak »

This must be a late Victor III. I don't know of anyone reproducing these plates. Years ago, I got a project VV VI with a worn data plate. First I lightly polished the ID plate making sure what ever is left on the stencil intact. I use very fime artist paint brushes you can get at Michael's or a hobby shop. At a good hobby shop, get Tamaya flay black model paint. Using the finest brush you buy, carefully apply the flat black pain into the missing areas. Don't worry if you get some paint outside the area. When dry, use a pointed toothpick to clean the edges. I use a toothpick because it doesn't scratch the aluminum plate. It is tedious and time consuming, but it can be done. I do not recommend spray painting the plate. It is hard to buff the paint to get to the details because of the shallowness of the details. After the details are painted and trimmed, spray paint with Testors or Krylon Fusion flat clear paint. These two products will not harm oe craze the paint like other brands do. These are specifically for plastic models. This is a model building technique that I use for brass and diecast model trains. Good luck,
Harvey Kravitz

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Phono-Phan
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Re: Victor data plates

Post by Phono-Phan »

Harvey's technique is pretty good. It takes a LOT of time and patience to get the paint in the areas that you want it to be at and not where you don't want it. I was able to restore a Victor MS plate. It had a deeper embossing though. I did completely stripped it clean. Then buffed it out and spray painted it. Then very carefully scraped the high spots with a razor blade when the paint dried. It took a LOT of time also but it turned out great.
Good luck. Post some pictures of the plate also.
Ken Brekke

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gramophone-georg
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Re: Victor data plates

Post by gramophone-georg »

Thanks... this is actually for the guy who bought my old Vic V. I never tackled this job for just this reason. The older brass tags are quite a bit easier to do with the strip, spray, and buff method. He asked me about it and I've never done one like this so I figured I would toss it out there.

The plate on my "new" Vic 5 almost looks silkscreened- very little- if any- embossing to it at all. Yet, it looks brand- new. This is why I was curious if it had been reproduced.

Harvey's method sounds doable with an eagle eye and a very steady hand.
"He who dies with the most shellac wins"- some nutty record geek

I got PTSD from Peter F's avatar

Phonofreak
Victor VI
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Re: Victor data plates

Post by Phonofreak »

Yes, the brass plates are much easier to restore. The engravings are deep, and hold the paint better. When I did my VV VI, it took several hours. I could only do one hour at a time. It's easy to get impatient. When that happens, put it aside, regroup, and do it again. I think it took me 5-6 hours to do this plate over a few day period.
Harvey Kravitz

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Joe Busam
Victor Jr
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Re: Victor data plates

Post by Joe Busam »

VictorMplate.jpg
Here's how the plate for my Victor M turned out. When I got the machine decades ago, the plate was brass with no paint whatsoever. I applied a very thin coat of black spray paint, let it dry then used superfine sandpaper taped to a piece of glass. I did it in very small steps. I did have to do just a bit of touchup with a small brush but I was pretty happy with the results. I will say the emboss on the plate was deeper than the the one on my recently acquired V.

EarlH
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Re: Victor data plates

Post by EarlH »

There's a place here in town that still makes ID plates using that process and it's pretty interesting to see how they make those. I applied for that job 30 years ago before UPS hired me and they showed me how they acid etched those ID tags. They either painted the background or darkened the brass with a chemical before the wax or whatever was used to keep the nickel from being attacked by the process. They can sure make those things a lot faster than you'd think. And then they stack them up in number stampers that look like they were made in the 30's and strike all the serial numbers on them.

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Joe Busam
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Re: Victor data plates

Post by Joe Busam »

Finally had an open Saturday and decided to get caught up on the improvements on my Victor V. I applied the first coat of paint to the back bracket. While it was drying I took a HUGE leap of faith and decided to see what I could do to improve the name plate. I gave it a VERY light sanding which helped in a few areas but rather than risk permanent damage, Went in and worked very carefully with an Exacto blade and carefully scraped away the tarnish exposing the metal beneath. I then took a very fine brush and painted around the background areas, I thinned down the paint so that it would flow smoothly and then took the brush and carefully worked around each letter. Some areas were too fine so I blended the paint into the original background. My years as an illustrator and animator paid off to a degree. It took patience and a few breaks along the way. Is it perfect? Not by a long shot but now you can read all the information on it and unless you're right on top of it it looks pretty good. Hope you approve.
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gramophone-georg
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Re: Victor data plates

Post by gramophone-georg »

Joe Busam wrote:Finally had an open Saturday and decided to get caught up on the improvements on my Victor V. I applied the first coat of paint to the back bracket. While it was drying I took a HUGE leap of faith and decided to see what I could do to improve the name plate. I gave it a VERY light sanding which helped in a few areas but rather than risk permanent damage, Went in and worked very carefully with an Exacto blade and carefully scraped away the tarnish exposing the metal beneath. I then took a very fine brush and painted around the background areas, I thinned down the paint so that it would flow smoothly and then took the brush and carefully worked around each letter. Some areas were too fine so I blended the paint into the original background. My years as an illustrator and animator paid off to a degree. It took patience and a few breaks along the way. Is it perfect? Not by a long shot but now you can read all the information on it and unless you're right on top of it it looks pretty good. Hope you approve.
:D
"He who dies with the most shellac wins"- some nutty record geek

I got PTSD from Peter F's avatar

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