Plumber's grease can be had at any hardware store, I get mine at the local Ace Hardware. I don't really know the difference between it and other types, it was recommended to me years ago for tonearm joints and I've never used anything else.
Sean
Victrola Horn Caulking
- OrthoSean
- Victor V
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- Auxetophone
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Re: Victrola Horn Caulking
What I can tell you is that plumber's grease is usually silicone based and does not melt like normal grease. Beyond that I don't know what properties it possesses that makes it superior or inferior to petroleum based grease. I've used Vaseline before and it worked fine. I think one of my friends used to be an industrial lubrication engineer, I just have to remember which one so I can ask....
- AZ*
- Victor IV
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Re: Victrola Horn Caulking
I have caulked and/or sealed a number of horns and joints over the years. In each case, it usually made a significant difference.
Regarding zero's original question, I did use a clay rope-type caulk - I don't remember the brand - on my Columbia 800 Viva Tonal machine some years ago. It made a HUGE difference.
Regarding zero's original question, I did use a clay rope-type caulk - I don't remember the brand - on my Columbia 800 Viva Tonal machine some years ago. It made a HUGE difference.
Best regards ... AZ*
- Henry
- Victor V
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Re: Victrola Horn Caulking
"Mortite" is one brand that I'm familiar with.AZ* wrote: I did use a clay rope-type caulk - I don't remember the brand.. ..
- CharliePhono
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Re: Victrola Horn Caulking
The brutal heat and nearby fires finally abated enough for me to get at my newly acquired 4-7. Serviced the motor yesterday and (you guys and gals know how it is) just *had* to hear it in operation before phase 2 of the restore/cleanup. MM rebuilt the soundbox and I went through several records last night and was essentially pleased with the reproduction, but knew it could sound better. Thus, just finished silicone caulking and coating the horn with the glycerin/denatured alcohol mix. I do expect an improvement in the sound, much as I experienced after servicing the horn in the 4-3.
It anyone knows how to completely extricate the horn from the cabinet without taking the stack off to which the tone arm connects, I'd appreciate knowing. I know forum member Oceangoer had his completely out, but deuce if I know how he did it. Perhaps he'll see this and weigh in. At any rate, I'll report back on the audio quality after all is reassembled.
Cheers!
It anyone knows how to completely extricate the horn from the cabinet without taking the stack off to which the tone arm connects, I'd appreciate knowing. I know forum member Oceangoer had his completely out, but deuce if I know how he did it. Perhaps he'll see this and weigh in. At any rate, I'll report back on the audio quality after all is reassembled.
Cheers!
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- Victor III
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Re: Victrola Horn Caulking
You have to remove the part that connects it up to the tone arm. He must have put it back on after he got it out of the cabinet. Those things are pot metal and are sometimes quite fragile.
- CharliePhono
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Re: Victrola Horn Caulking
Glad I didn't remove it. It actually was not necessary to completely remove the horn to baste the inside with the glop. I suppose one would argue that the outside of the horn case should have been glopped, too, but I'm a big believer in the "good enough" theory to avoid busting something I shouldn't. I didn't see any metal on the part I'm calling (for lack of a better term) the stack on the right upper corner of the horn which attaches to the tone arm. It had a cork gasket on the top and appeared to be composed of wood. The machine sounded good last night, but I'm thinking it may sound even better today, since the concoction has likely dried and hopefully slightly swollen the wood.EarlH wrote:You have to remove the part that connects it up to the tone arm. He must have put it back on after he got it out of the cabinet. Those things are pot metal and are sometimes quite fragile.
Thanks, Earl.