The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

Anyone that makes new leather belts for their machines knows that you have to bevel the ends before gluing them together. This can be pretty tricky using a razor blade. I have made up a few stainless steel beveling tools to prevent cutting fingers with the razor blade and to get a perfect bevel. The groove is wide enough for the wider Columbia belting also. It is best to hold the tool in a vise but it also works well holding it down on a table. I will have these available at the Union show also.
Asking price is $30 plus any shipping. If I run out of them, I plan on making more.
Ken Brekke

I use 220 grit sand paper on a flat surface. I pull the belt with enough pressure using my index finger to get the desired angle. I do that with both ends until you get the desired result. I never did use a razor blade. I have been doing that for close to 25 years, and never had a problem with this method.
Harvey Kravitz

What glue do you use.???? I have used white glue and super glue. Tom B

Hi All,
I have only made belts about 3 or 4 times in 40 years but I will give the forum my opinion anyway. White glue can not be reversed and I think that is true of super glue also. If you make a mistake or need to shorten the belt and you have used these glues you will windup (no pun intended) with two or more slices in the belt. Hot and or cold animal glue is what I think they used originally and if you make a mistake a damp under shirt and hot iron will soften the glue so that you can resize the belt. This thinking comes from years of knowledge working on player and reproducing pianos. These pianos wooden parts can be repaired because they originally used hot animal or hide glue. Some many people have used white or other non softening glues in the past and if the pianos need to be rebuilt a second time it is a problem taking them apart once they are glued with white glue or Titebound etc.
Allen

I have been many using regular Elmer's or crazy glue. Both would always show some very unsatisfactory results. Both will leave a seam soaked with hardened glue. This is exactly what you -do not- want on a belt as you will hear the seem in speed flaws with every revolution that belt will make.

For me, the easiest way has been rubber cement. It only will take a few minutes and it will hold the ends together just perfectly. The one on my Edison Home has been there for over 15 years, still going strong. Hide glue does sound interesting too, though.

Thanks for the interest in this tool. I have had very good luck with contact cement. Just a thin coat on both ends, let them dry, and press them together. The bond remains flexible unlike Elmers which isn't.
Ken Brekke

I use Walther's Goo cement. It is a very strong, flexible contact cement. You can get it at any good hobby shop, or online like ebay. It is for model rail roads, but can be used for any application.
Harvey Kravitz

What a great idea, Ken!

Here is an ebay link for Walther's Goo Cement. I have been using this stuff for well over 40 years with model building and model railroading. I have been using this for belts and album repair. It works great for just about anything.
Harvey Kravitz

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WALTHERS-GOO-1- ... SwZQRYeXpZ

The tool is really a great idea, especially if you are doing lots of belts.


I personally use either Pattex Kraftkleber: http://www.ebay.de/itm/272699922574

or Elmer's Rubber Cement (this is not the regular Elmer's glue): http://www.ebay.com/itm/252530610018


All these products are basically the same, some are transparent, other's are not but that does not matter when gluing leather belts. The Elmer's jar comes with a brush in the cap that makes an even application a tad easier. After some time, the glue will become thicker and more gooey. You don't have to throw it away, but simply add a little bit of acetone to dilute it. Stir thoroughly for some two minutes and it will be fine again.