I have a few places on my VV X cabinet where the laminate is lifting (doors, lid) but nothing too serious. I was thinking of putting some type of epoxy then placed in wood clamps for a few days. Is there a better way? I don’t want to do more harm than good. Or should I just leave it alone since it’s minor?
Thanks, Dave
Cabinet laminate split repairs
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- Victor Jr
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- Curt A
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Re: Cabinet laminate split repairs
Don't use epoxy... The general consensus on the forum is hide glue, but wood glue would work fine... it's just not reversible, although I can't think of a reason why you would want to reverse this repair. Epoxy is overkill and nasty to remove if you get it on anything else...
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Thomas Alva Edison - Comment to his assistant, Samuel Insull.
"No one needs a Victrola XX, a Perfected Graphophone Type G, or whatever you call those noisy things."
My Wife
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- Victor Jr
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Re: Cabinet laminate split repairs
Thanks for the tip. I’m in the process of cleaning my new VV X and making notes on things I see for future repairs. I’m not in a rush to get it all done.
- alang
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Re: Cabinet laminate split repairs
I agree with hide glue rather than wood glue. Definitely no epoxy or gorilla glue! Since I don’t have the space to heat hide glue the old fashioned way I use liquid hide glue available from home improvement stores or on amazon. Works like a charm.
Andreas
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Re: Cabinet laminate split repairs
I use wood glue, although hide glue is fine too if you like. Get a small, thin putty knife and work the glue under the lifted veneer as far back as you can. Lay a sheet of waxed paper over the side/s you're gluing. Clamp the piece you're gluing between two very flat & smooth boards. Be sure that the board covers an area larger than that of the lifted veneer, if not the entire surface. Using a backing any smaller, (or none at all), will "emboss" the shape of the backing, or the clamp pad, into the panel, which will ruin its appearance. The waxed paper is to keep any glue that may seep out, from getting on your backing board and gluing it to the panel you are repairing.
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- Victor Jr
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Re: Cabinet laminate split repairs
Thank you all for the valuable information. This girl is my first and I don’t want her to be my test bed, I want to get it right; not because I have a sentimental attachment to it, but because I want it to last another 100 years. I’m a newbie... but I’m adamant about getting it right.
- De Soto Frank
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Re: Cabinet laminate split repairs
Titebond makes a liguid hide-glue in a squeeze bottle.
If your local box-store doesn't have it, it is available on-line from Amazon, Veritas, and other vendors. Don't buy too big a bottle, it is perishable.
Don't use anything else... you may not have to deal with it again, but maybe the next owner...
Gently open the gap with a couple toothpicks, tap the piece crack-side down on the bench to dislodge any debris, then spread some hide-glue inside the gap with toothpick or one of those thin bamboo stirring paddles they have the coffee shops these days, then clamp, using wooden battens ("Cauls") with wax-paper between the finished surfaces and anything else, draw-up the clamps evenly and snugly, and let dry for a few days.
Any glue squeeze-out can be carefully scraped-away / removed with rag dampened with warm water.
Article on cauls and clamping...
http://www.finewoodworking.com/2011/03/ ... t-glue-ups
Good luck !
If your local box-store doesn't have it, it is available on-line from Amazon, Veritas, and other vendors. Don't buy too big a bottle, it is perishable.
Don't use anything else... you may not have to deal with it again, but maybe the next owner...
Gently open the gap with a couple toothpicks, tap the piece crack-side down on the bench to dislodge any debris, then spread some hide-glue inside the gap with toothpick or one of those thin bamboo stirring paddles they have the coffee shops these days, then clamp, using wooden battens ("Cauls") with wax-paper between the finished surfaces and anything else, draw-up the clamps evenly and snugly, and let dry for a few days.
Any glue squeeze-out can be carefully scraped-away / removed with rag dampened with warm water.
Article on cauls and clamping...
http://www.finewoodworking.com/2011/03/ ... t-glue-ups
Good luck !
De Soto Frank