restoration advise needed

[stetam]

OK, picking this up today. I believe its a VV-300 that the owner was going to throw away. Since I can never turn down a project, well you know. All the wood is solid with no warping or chipping but it seems to have paint dripped on it. What's the best way to remove the paint without removing the finish?

Stetam

[martinola]

Certainly the price is right! I'm filling the capacity of Mr. Obvious this morning. How easy the paint comes off depends on what kind of paint it is and how long it has been there. If there are any paint drips on the back, that is where I'd experiment first. Goof off might work, but I'd only start with a very small bottle (in case it's ineffective). I'd steer away from any of the paint strippers. Non- pumice Goop or GoJo hand cleaner may help in the paint removal and will certainly help in the final finish clean up - just don't leave it on long and have plenty of paper towels.

It looks like the finish is in otherwise decent original shape. It would be worth some time and effort in preserving it. Tools like single edged razor blades, putty knives (both steel and plastic) come to mind. My gut feeling is that you will have to use more than one technique and more than one pass to remove most of it. Go slow, work in small areas and quit when you're tired. I think it will clean up nice if you approach it as a big detail job rather than a big job.

Good luck and keep us posted!

Martin

[phonogfp]

I like Martin's advice. I'd try cleaning the cabinet with non-pumiced Goop/GoJo first. Then, with one of the tools Martin mentioned (I especially like a small plastic scraper or - if you have a steady hand - a jeweler's screwdriver), try "pushing" on one of the paint chips. Type of paint and condition of the original finish are critical, but on many occasions, I've been able to "pop" off paint splatters without damaging the finish. Especially if they're relatively heavy splatters. Just gently push from an edge.

Light splatter, or smears (the worst) won't come off this way. Let the Goop/GoJo do its work, then take 0000 steel wool and LIGHTLY work on the area. A little Goop/GoJo or even mineral oil will lubricate the steel wool and hopefully allow you to remove the pain but not the finish.

Good luck!

George P.

[estott]

Goof Off is great at removing latex paint splatters

[stetam]

Thanks everyone for the recommendations! Fortunately, the paint was more like a stain and on a quick check using gojo and 0000 steel wool it came right off revealing some nice grain. It sat at a hunting camp for 60 years so lots of what seems to be dirt and smoke film. I have high hopes for it to clean up nice.

Stetam

[stetam]

Another question, it seems to have a slipping spring. I have rebuilt 2 spring Victrola and grafonola motors but never a 4 spring. Anything unique that I should be aware of when doing it?

Stetam

[Phono-Phan]

Are the springs slipping because one or more of them are broken or just old grease that is dried out. I have been lucky with taking the spring barrels out and soaking them in a small bucket with a light solvent. This can loosen up the dried grease. If there are broken springs then it is best to replace all four. Take note of the orientation of the springs when you remove them.

[stetam]

Just verifying that this is the correct winding order looking from left to right. Correct?

]

[Inigo]

Actually there's no big problem with this. Inside the barrels the springs can go only in one evident direction. The trick is when installing the barrels in the motor. They are in inverse direction, and are interchangeable, so if they don't engage the springs, just swap them, changing the gears, and they will work. The photo is ok.
The trick is understanding the order in which they are wounded up. The winding gear winds no1, this winds no 2 through the first barrel. Then the inner long arbor winds the farthest spring, and this thru second barrel, winds the spring that goes on the big spindle wheel, pressing it against the ball bearing at the bottom of the spindle.
Both barrels can be inverted on themselves (lids in/out) and the operation is the same, but they are not interchangeable between them, one position works and the other doesn't. Some models are marked (12) on the outside of the barrel that must go first (from the winding gear).

[stetam]

That's what I thought. Simple stuff. Thank you!