How to restore a decal?

[snallast]

I´m looking at two decals - identical - GRAMMOPHON on two hornmachines. The older one is the one in better shape (1904) it´s on the front of the machine. Oak box, brass horn.

The other one - there is little left - is on the winding side of the box. I do not want to paste a new one on top, it would not look right I think.
My question is has anyone with any success tried to fill in the missing parts of letters and maybe added some kind of gold background? And if so, how?

[jamiegramo]

Sometime ago I saw on this forum a thread where a member in America has restored a few original decals on his machines. He had done a remarkable job, well at least I thought so! Preferable to replacing the decals. I have tried to refind that thread since but couldn't find it. I will keep looking...

Jamie

[jamiegramo]

I found the thread. I wouldn't replace the existing transfer. If you have a steady hand you can always improve it if you want or can use post-it note tape or paper as an edge for the straight lines of the lettering. Otherwise best left.

http://forum.talkingmachine.info/viewto ... als#p49753

[jamiegramo]

Last message came up twice!

PS. If you look at the thread it was 'phonogfp' who restored his decals. Just look at his restoration on 'The Globe Talking Machine Co' decal... like mega wow!

[alang]

More decal restoration examples from Wyatt Marcus' website http://www.lagparty.org/~wyatt/decalrestoration.html

Andreas

[snallast]

Thanks for your input and the links! Looks encouraging! As I have two identical decals at least I can have one as a reference for the other when it comes to obliterated parts of letters.

I´ll give it a try! Go slow and get back here with the results after my efforts (as well as how I went about it - neither of the links went into the how - but then maybe it´s obvious: do my best to match colours, etc.

[jamiegramo]

'phonogfp' does not claim to be an artist but has done a good job. I did a similar thing on an attractive dealers transfer-decal on the side of a machine. It's trial and error.

Use a very small brush and keep a pot of cotton tip sticks with you, anything that goes wrong can be wipped off with a little of the correct solvent until you get it right. Use as little paint as possible and thin it down. That way it won't show as obvious blobs or raised paint sitting on the surface. I used Hummel enamel paints thinned with white spirit.

[tomb]

The gold and black colors are easier to match than the reds and other colors. Go to a craft store or stationary store for sharpies or paint. It may take several pens to match up. Tom

[snallast]

So, there are 2 decals - identical. One is pretty ok except for some holes and stuff - see pics. I filled the holes on that one and retouched it some.
The other one was almost gone and that´s been the one I´ve been working on.

Trying pens and different colours, in the end I settled for 2 shades of gold (hobby enamel) that I mixed (and a little green), the finest of paintbrushes and the lens from an old projector. It´s surprising, but the actual painting comes out better when you paint and look at what you´re doing without magnification. In between
it´s a good idea to look closely through the lens.

The black I used is oil colour, so it´s going to need some time to dry before I can paint again without messing up what I´ve done so far.

This decal is difficult because it´s small: less than 9 cm across. I know it´s far from perfect now, but I´m hoping it´ll come out ok the next time. I´ll get back with pictures then.

[jamiegramo]

From what I can see you've done an excellent job of it!

Much better than a replacement as they still look old.