Fantastic, I hope we can hear it in action in due course!
Regarding the Orchorsol soundbox, this seller has nice soft reproduction lifebelt rubbers - I bought a couple myself some time ago: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334217491402 and it may help to back off the front plate screws a little, to allow a greater gap (so long as airtightness is maintained), similar to one of the ways EMG soundboxes are tuned.
HMV Arm Guidance Needed
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Re: HMV Arm Guidance Needed
BCN thorn needles made to the original 1920s specifications: http://www.burmesecolourneedles.com
Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCe4DNb ... TPE-zTAJGg?
Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCe4DNb ... TPE-zTAJGg?
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Re: HMV Arm Guidance Needed
Yes, yes... I'm very fond of that same treatment, which I've done on my hmv no4 and 5a/b soundboxes with great results! I'm trying it also on exhibition soundboxes, but I've not yet found the soft spot on these. Nevertheless, I've noticed a great improvement on exhibition soundboxes with relaxed pressure and enhanced air chamber when playing electrical 78s... But with acoustics I don't like the results very much. But this could be because my acoustic hmv machines are of the little internal horn type, which I've ended thinking is the guilty, for the soundbox improvements not being suited for that size of horn.
Inigo
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Re: HMV Arm Guidance Needed
Yes, and that is loosely what I attempted. Actually I am going for hyperbolic rather than exponential in the case. The bass response was fantastic but the volume was beyond anaemic likely due to the fact I was using shellac-ed cardboard with squared corners rather than bends. The reason I am thinking a round tube is due to size constraints caused by the "pyramid" style case plus the placement of the huge motor. In my calculations and drawings, the tube fits far neater and could be fabricated as a "bolt in" just like the original conduit.Inigo wrote: ↑Sun Nov 14, 2021 8:14 am You could try to copy an original tinplate hmv internal horn, I mean, the snake narrow part until you reach your horn base. Maybe the shape of a101, or the longer one of a 127 would fit into your case. Anyway, these are made with plane thin sheets, simply curved to gain the increasing cross section. It seems not difficult to make from tinplate sheets, or balsa wood... You'd better calculate the cross section progress in exponential form, giving an expansion factor that matches: 1) the available length, 2) the cross sections at the tonearm base and at the horn spigot. It will be a thin conduit, placed around the motor, running by three of the case sides. You could form it using straight balsa wood boards, glued to the inner case boards using the corners of the inner case as bottom and outer sides of the horn conduit, adding only the upper and inner sides, and make Plano-reflex style corner boards at 45 degrees, instead of curved elbows, etc. It would be easy to make. And balsa wood is easy to cut, light and sound inert...?
I do my trials with another material, which is that board used by architects to make building mockups. It is a sandwich made of white cardboard and polyurethane foam in between. The total thickness is somewhat 3-4 mm or similar, and it is cheap and easy to cut.
Do you imagine what I'm proposing?
I briefly toyed with the idea of installing a 2 spring Victor motor in place of the 4 spring monster, but rejected it because that's not how I work. I enjoy these sorts of "impossible" projects. My last creation for a good customer was a 1967 Mercedes 200 Diesel fintail sedan with a 1983 240D engine, a 5 speed transmission from a 1990s 190D, and a taller differential, all of which required a copious amount of fabrication to be installed AND look original to the car. Then I had to beef the suspension and brakes for the heavier engine, added power steering and a correct steel sliding roof clip, plus added period correct aircon and 1980s cruise control. This car will now climb a hill easily at 75 (121 kph) in 5th gear and runs as quiet and sure as a gas model but still looks like a 1967 200D everywhere... sort of a latter day German version of "Henry Made A Lady Out Of Lizzie".
"He who dies with the most shellac wins"- some nutty record geek
I got PTSD from Peter F's avatar
I got PTSD from Peter F's avatar
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Re: HMV Arm Guidance Needed
Thanks for that! I will look into a replacement lifebelt.Orchorsol wrote: ↑Sun Nov 14, 2021 9:17 am Fantastic, I hope we can hear it in action in due course!
Regarding the Orchorsol soundbox, this seller has nice soft reproduction lifebelt rubbers - I bought a couple myself some time ago: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334217491402 and it may help to back off the front plate screws a little, to allow a greater gap (so long as airtightness is maintained), similar to one of the ways EMG soundboxes are tuned.
I have the machine it goes to as well- a project portable I got from Alex some time ago. The recent thread about the Jackson Pollock style Orchosol has the wheels in my mind spinning... the rexine is quite thin on this one, all the nickeling needs redone, everything is at the end of a wear cycle, just as I prefer them for a custom refresh. I am quite well versed in hydrographic transfers, so maybe it's time to experiment with some yellowish- tan alligator vinyl material and splashes of vinyl dye, and see if Gregg Cline can come up with a copy of that "Chucky"- like decal... Hmmm
So- I have plans for this soundbox in any case.
"He who dies with the most shellac wins"- some nutty record geek
I got PTSD from Peter F's avatar
I got PTSD from Peter F's avatar
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Re: HMV Arm Guidance Needed
The 4-spring motor is indeed monstrous and really out of proportion to the cabinet. Whenever I transport it, my lifting stance is never correct and my back pays the price. It's especially weird considering the 31a, with a substantially larger cabinet, only has a 2-spring.gramophone-georg wrote: ↑Sun Nov 14, 2021 2:39 pmYes, and that is loosely what I attempted. Actually I am going for hyperbolic rather than exponential in the case. The bass response was fantastic but the volume was beyond anaemic likely due to the fact I was using shellac-ed cardboard with squared corners rather than bends. The reason I am thinking a round tube is due to size constraints caused by the "pyramid" style case plus the placement of the huge motor. In my calculations and drawings, the tube fits far neater and could be fabricated as a "bolt in" just like the original conduit.Inigo wrote: ↑Sun Nov 14, 2021 8:14 am You could try to copy an original tinplate hmv internal horn, I mean, the snake narrow part until you reach your horn base. Maybe the shape of a101, or the longer one of a 127 would fit into your case. Anyway, these are made with plane thin sheets, simply curved to gain the increasing cross section. It seems not difficult to make from tinplate sheets, or balsa wood... You'd better calculate the cross section progress in exponential form, giving an expansion factor that matches: 1) the available length, 2) the cross sections at the tonearm base and at the horn spigot. It will be a thin conduit, placed around the motor, running by three of the case sides. You could form it using straight balsa wood boards, glued to the inner case boards using the corners of the inner case as bottom and outer sides of the horn conduit, adding only the upper and inner sides, and make Plano-reflex style corner boards at 45 degrees, instead of curved elbows, etc. It would be easy to make. And balsa wood is easy to cut, light and sound inert...?
I do my trials with another material, which is that board used by architects to make building mockups. It is a sandwich made of white cardboard and polyurethane foam in between. The total thickness is somewhat 3-4 mm or similar, and it is cheap and easy to cut.
Do you imagine what I'm proposing?
I briefly toyed with the idea of installing a 2 spring Victor motor in place of the 4 spring monster, but rejected it because that's not how I work. I enjoy these sorts of "impossible" projects. My last creation for a good customer was a 1967 Mercedes 200 Diesel fintail sedan with a 1983 240D engine, a 5 speed transmission from a 1990s 190D, and a taller differential, all of which required a copious amount of fabrication to be installed AND look original to the car. Then I had to beef the suspension and brakes for the heavier engine, added power steering and a correct steel sliding roof clip, plus added period correct aircon and 1980s cruise control. This car will now climb a hill easily at 75 (121 kph) in 5th gear and runs as quiet and sure as a gas model but still looks like a 1967 200D everywhere... sort of a latter day German version of "Henry Made A Lady Out Of Lizzie".
My springs were bad and I had no work space to even attempt a spring barrel removal, so I found a rebuilt Victor 5378 motor and it popped in quite easily (still thinking that one day I will re-do these HMV springs). But man, if there were a single spring plug 'n play option, I would entertain it.
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Re: HMV Arm Guidance Needed
This has been a very fun thread teo watch--the rebuilt HMV looks great & I'm glad the Victor motor is a bolt-in replacement.
The Orchorsol portable project will also look great--but I checked & Gregg Cline doesn't yet have the Howling Child decal listed.
The Orchorsol portable project will also look great--but I checked & Gregg Cline doesn't yet have the Howling Child decal listed.
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Re: HMV Arm Guidance Needed
This has been a very fun thread teo watch--the rebuilt HMV looks great & I'm glad the Victor motor is a bolt-in replacement.
The Orchorsol portable project will also look great--but I checked & Gregg Cline doesn't yet have the Howling Child decal listed. (But what are we gonna do--cry about it?)
The Orchorsol portable project will also look great--but I checked & Gregg Cline doesn't yet have the Howling Child decal listed. (But what are we gonna do--cry about it?)
- Inigo
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Re: HMV Arm Guidance Needed
In my experience, these motors are the same, except for the fact that the Victor has a slightly longer spindle, and the turntable sits a bit raised when compared to the hmv34. I once replaced it in my 194 and I had to readjust the brake. Besides that, the hmv turntable didn't fit perfectly, so I also replaced it. Some time later I repaired the hmv motor and reverted to the original.
Nevertheless, I retained the Victor yoke semi-automatic brake, for other reasons explained herein in other posts. Briefly, this brake doesn't touch the tonearm prong until the very end, so less drag and better for the delicate bamboo needles. The original fully automatic hmv brake has a fork which is permanently attached to the tonearm prong, so permanently dragging it's movement. Lightly, but there it is. Either you disconnect it, but then, no auto-brake... I found that compromise solution the most comfortable for daily use....
Nevertheless, I retained the Victor yoke semi-automatic brake, for other reasons explained herein in other posts. Briefly, this brake doesn't touch the tonearm prong until the very end, so less drag and better for the delicate bamboo needles. The original fully automatic hmv brake has a fork which is permanently attached to the tonearm prong, so permanently dragging it's movement. Lightly, but there it is. Either you disconnect it, but then, no auto-brake... I found that compromise solution the most comfortable for daily use....
Inigo
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Re: HMV Arm Guidance Needed
Interesting. I actually had to shim my turntable with plastic tape as it sat too low and scraped the brake slightly with the Victor motor I am using. The HMV TT fits fine, too. I removed the auto brake for the reasons you describe and went back to the original simple manual brake.Inigo wrote: ↑Tue Nov 16, 2021 1:11 pm In my experience, these motors are the same, except for the fact that the Victor has a slightly longer spindle, and the turntable sits a bit raised when compared to the hmv34. I once replaced it in my 194 and I had to readjust the brake. Besides that, the hmv turntable didn't fit perfectly, so I also replaced it. Some time later I repaired the hmv motor and reverted to the original.
Nevertheless, I retained the Victor yoke semi-automatic brake, for other reasons explained herein in other posts. Briefly, this brake doesn't touch the tonearm prong until the very end, so less drag and better for the delicate bamboo needles. The original fully automatic hmv brake has a fork which is permanently attached to the tonearm prong, so permanently dragging it's movement. Lightly, but there it is. Either you disconnect it, but then, no auto-brake... I found that compromise solution the most comfortable for daily use....
"He who dies with the most shellac wins"- some nutty record geek
I got PTSD from Peter F's avatar
I got PTSD from Peter F's avatar