Hi all!
I am (most likely) going to purchase a Victrola VV-230 in the next week or so, and would like some advise, and perhaps a few answers
1. How do you properly transport it? Should I leave some tension in the springs for the motor, and lock the brake (if possible) while transporting it, or should I let the turntable run until it fully stops, then transport it? Should it be stored upright, or could it be laid on it's back? (I'm thinking upright, most likely, but, it depends) I don't want to damage the motor.
2. How do you keep the springs wound? I always thought you rotated the hand crank until you felt a little tension, then play the record. I've seen several people mention "a key" to wind up the motor, to ensure it works properly. Did I miss something?
3. What is a fair price to pay for one (#1 newbie question, I know) but I'm aware it's a fairly uncommon model, and the man I'm talking to wants $368.00 firm for it. He says it plays well, and presents well. He sent me a few photo's of it, and it looks great. The finish on the outside is no longer ultra glossy, like a lot of original well preserved examples, but no missing veneer, or anything. Of course, under the lid is the shiny finish we all know.
If I get it, I'll become quite a regular here
Victrola Ownership Tips/Advise/Questions
- SignatureSeriesOwner
- Victor II
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Victrola Ownership Tips/Advise/Questions
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Re: Victrola Ownership Tips/Advise/Questions
Welcome Sig,
I won't touch the how much to or not to wind/unwind the springs, strong opinions abound on that one. (but I would say it doesn't matter)
You can transport either upright or on it's back without problem, however, if you transport it on it's back be sure to remove the repro and the platter and immobilize the tone arm some how. What I do is just wrap a large bath towel around the tonearm. I have a nice appliance dolly and when I transport I remove the repro and platter, immobilize the tonearm, wrap the machine in a moving pad/blanket, strap it in the dolly, lay the whole thing in the back of the van. When I get it home, it is still on the dolly and ready to make the final journey to it's new spot. The furniture pad also holds the lid shut while it is on it's back.
If you transport it upright, you can leave the repro and platter in place, but I would recommend immobilizing the tonearm as above.
Oh ya, be sure and remove the crank (winding key) and if you transport on it's back, be sure to remove any needles and needle cup inserts unless you want to be picking hundreds of needles out of the cabinet, your vehicle, and the floor of you house.
Good luck and hope to see you back as a regular.
I won't touch the how much to or not to wind/unwind the springs, strong opinions abound on that one. (but I would say it doesn't matter)
You can transport either upright or on it's back without problem, however, if you transport it on it's back be sure to remove the repro and the platter and immobilize the tone arm some how. What I do is just wrap a large bath towel around the tonearm. I have a nice appliance dolly and when I transport I remove the repro and platter, immobilize the tonearm, wrap the machine in a moving pad/blanket, strap it in the dolly, lay the whole thing in the back of the van. When I get it home, it is still on the dolly and ready to make the final journey to it's new spot. The furniture pad also holds the lid shut while it is on it's back.
If you transport it upright, you can leave the repro and platter in place, but I would recommend immobilizing the tonearm as above.
Oh ya, be sure and remove the crank (winding key) and if you transport on it's back, be sure to remove any needles and needle cup inserts unless you want to be picking hundreds of needles out of the cabinet, your vehicle, and the floor of you house.
Good luck and hope to see you back as a regular.
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- SignatureSeriesOwner
- Victor II
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Re: Victrola Ownership Tips/Advise/Questions
How do I remove the reproducer and the platter? Does the platter lift off, or do both of them have a setscrew or something?
Thanks! So the crank is the winding "key" for the motor like I have always thought then, right? There is no dual key setup on these machines?
Thanks! So the crank is the winding "key" for the motor like I have always thought then, right? There is no dual key setup on these machines?
Saving America's Acoustical History, One Phonograph At A Time...
- Brad
- Victor III
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Re: Victrola Ownership Tips/Advise/Questions
Hi Sig,
Sure, the platter should just lift off. If not, check to see if the spindle has a slot in the top or a hole through the side. If so, then it probably unscrews. If this is the case, the platter is held on securely and you don't need to remove it, though, use a small nail or screw driver to unscrew it if you want to remove it.
The repro should have a small small pin the fits into a slot in the tone arm. All you have to do is rotate the repro about a 1/16 of a turn and then pull it off. If you don't want to remove, just be sure to make sure it is immobilized and won't flop around in transport. I always remove it myself.
The winding key (technically the correct term, however, most people use crank) is indeed the crank for the motor.
Sure, the platter should just lift off. If not, check to see if the spindle has a slot in the top or a hole through the side. If so, then it probably unscrews. If this is the case, the platter is held on securely and you don't need to remove it, though, use a small nail or screw driver to unscrew it if you want to remove it.
The repro should have a small small pin the fits into a slot in the tone arm. All you have to do is rotate the repro about a 1/16 of a turn and then pull it off. If you don't want to remove, just be sure to make sure it is immobilized and won't flop around in transport. I always remove it myself.
The winding key (technically the correct term, however, most people use crank) is indeed the crank for the motor.
Why do we need signatures when we are on a first avatar basis?
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- Victor Monarch
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Re: Victrola Ownership Tips/Advise/Questions
Ordinarily I'd say $368 is a high price for a console, but the 230 is an exception. It all comes down to how much you really want it. The condition of the gold plated hardware is important- if there's much wear that takes away from the appearance.
- SignatureSeriesOwner
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Re: Victrola Ownership Tips/Advise/Questions
Hmm. Well, it appears the tables have turned.
This popped up on my local Craigslist:
"This is a wonderful and antique Victrola with shelves underneath. Under the lid, It says Victrola, Victor Talking Machine Company, and it has the date 1906. This is a wonderful piece, and is in near perfect condition. I am also including several records and extra needles. I am only parting with it because I am making room for a sewing area! Serious inquiries only, please! " -$225
Any idea what model it is? It's beautiful. I intend on having that in my living room. I just hope the seller reads my e-mail.
This popped up on my local Craigslist:
"This is a wonderful and antique Victrola with shelves underneath. Under the lid, It says Victrola, Victor Talking Machine Company, and it has the date 1906. This is a wonderful piece, and is in near perfect condition. I am also including several records and extra needles. I am only parting with it because I am making room for a sewing area! Serious inquiries only, please! " -$225
Any idea what model it is? It's beautiful. I intend on having that in my living room. I just hope the seller reads my e-mail.
Saving America's Acoustical History, One Phonograph At A Time...
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- Victor V
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Re: Victrola Ownership Tips/Advise/Questions
Here's the page with (most of) the Victrola models -- http://www.victor-victrola.com/new_page_2.htm
That looks like either the VV-XVII -- http://www.victor-victrola.com/XVII.htm
or its follow-on, the VV-130 -- http://www.victor-victrola.com/130.htm
Judging from what I can see of the tonearm, I'd guess it's the 130, but there should be a mfg's plate under the lid with the model and serial number.
OF
That looks like either the VV-XVII -- http://www.victor-victrola.com/XVII.htm
or its follow-on, the VV-130 -- http://www.victor-victrola.com/130.htm
Judging from what I can see of the tonearm, I'd guess it's the 130, but there should be a mfg's plate under the lid with the model and serial number.
OF
Last edited by OrthoFan on Thu Feb 25, 2010 10:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
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- Victor Monarch
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- SignatureSeriesOwner
- Victor II
- Posts: 335
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- Personal Text: VV-XVII, VV-XVI, VV-107, VV-IX's....
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Re: Victrola Ownership Tips/Advise/Questions
Well, I got it. It's a VV-XVII. A 1918 model, according to the serial #.
It looks beautiful. Only thing I can find wrong with it, is the reproducer is incorrect. It's a Victor Orthophonic reproducer, instead of a No. 2, or similar. (Perhaps someone on here would be willing to trade a No. 2 for a Ortho?)
Everything else looks perfect. The winding key has a little speckling, but other than that, it's great.
It does make a very slight ticka ticka ticka ticka when it's at full speed, it can't be heard when the needle is on the record, however. Is this something to fret over, or is it just the motor rotating?
It looks beautiful. Only thing I can find wrong with it, is the reproducer is incorrect. It's a Victor Orthophonic reproducer, instead of a No. 2, or similar. (Perhaps someone on here would be willing to trade a No. 2 for a Ortho?)
Everything else looks perfect. The winding key has a little speckling, but other than that, it's great.
It does make a very slight ticka ticka ticka ticka when it's at full speed, it can't be heard when the needle is on the record, however. Is this something to fret over, or is it just the motor rotating?
Saving America's Acoustical History, One Phonograph At A Time...
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- Victor Monarch
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Re: Victrola Ownership Tips/Advise/Questions
That is a real beauty, and if the Orthophonic reproducer is in rebuildable condition you got an especially sweet deal. #2 reproducers aren't hard to find although a good gold plate one might take a bit of searching. Congratulations!