Is jhonson paste wax any good for cabinets?

[Uncle Vanya]

VM&P Naptha should do the trick. If not, Xylene. Work quickly if you are forced to use Xylene, for it can slightly soften Pyroxlyn. Try to avoid it if at all possible.

Then polish and protect with a proper finishing wax, one which contains a high proportion of Carnuba, which will harden. Minwax “Special Dark” pigmented wax or Kiwi would be the easiest to obtain. Don’t go smearing Pyroxlyn with grease again!

Thanks for the tip... but humor a silly Liberal Arts guy and tell me what exactly "Pyroxlyn" is, and what grease I smeared over it.

”Pyroxlyn” is the trade name for Nitrocellulose, the same flammable stuff used for early film stock. Finely divided Nitrocellulose is known as “guncotton”, so-called smokeless powder. Pyroxlyn resin dissolved in acetone and toluene makes a really excellent lacquer base. It was the new finish featured on the 1925 And later Victor products.

[gramophone-georg]

VM&P Naptha should do the trick. If not, Xylene. Work quickly if you are forced to use Xylene, for it can slightly soften Pyroxlyn. Try to avoid it if at all possible.

Then polish and protect with a proper finishing wax, one which contains a high proportion of Carnuba, which will harden. Minwax “Special Dark” pigmented wax or Kiwi would be the easiest to obtain. Don’t go smearing Pyroxlyn with grease again!

Thanks for the tip... but humor a silly Liberal Arts guy and tell me what exactly "Pyroxlyn" is, and what grease I smeared over it.

”Pyroxlyn” is the trade name for Nitrocellulose, the same flammable stuff used for early film stock. Finely divided Nitrocellulose is known as “guncotton”, so-called smokeless powder. Pyroxlyn resin dissolved in acetone and toluene makes a really excellent lacquer base. It was the new finish featured on the 1925 And later Victor products.

Ah. Very good. Got it! So this Ren wax is the wrong stuff to put over this, then?

[tomb]

I just did my worn finish Edison DD 200 that I Had removed a lot of the alligatoring on the finish with orange bees wax oil and it looks good. Not new but well presentable. I Was going to put on restore a finish but wanted to give the bees wax a try. Try that for a finish as it should not do any damage I believe. Tom

[need4art]

Before we leave the subject of wax, I would like to offer the following for the use of Renaissance wax which I have been using for nearly 40 years in my studio:

1-I have been using it for almost anything that I want to create a durable long lasting surface finish. From providing a satin finish on newly gold leafed frames, to the finishing touch on a restored victrola cabinet as well as furniture.

2-It does not do well over other wax finishes. If you do not know the history of what has been put on an item, before you use Renaissance wax, wipe down the surface with "De-Waxer" or failing that mineral spirits. Doing this well will provide much better results with the Renaissance product. Mineral spirits will also help remove the wax without disturbing the original finish.

3-The "Karate Kid method of wax on wax off" works best on wood, using tight circle patterns in small areas, following up with removal works best. Using VERY SMALL amounts of wax is the way to do this. Many antique phonograph folks thinks that flooding the surface with whatever product they use works best. That is simply not the case with this material.

4-Here is my example. We have a solid walnut 48" circular coffee table that we sat around while I was dating my wife. Her family purchased it in 1952 and her mother used all sorts of waxes and products over the years on it. We inherited it after both her parents passed away. I used De-Waxer on it and 3 years ago I used the method that I will describe at this point. I take a 2.5X2.5" square of white Scotch Brite pad and pick up some of the Renaissance Wax, and then pass a fair sized ball of cheesecloth over that to pick up just a bit of the wax. Using a tight circular pattern I push the wax into the wood, I follow up immediately with soft cotton fabric. I continue to do this all over the table following whatever pattern that I pick, and then polish the entire table. I did this 2 more days in a row for a total of 3 coats. Time spent about 6 hours.

5-That was 3 years ago and you can still push, slide things across it and it feels like they are on ball bearings. No fingerprints, because seeing them means you used too much wax. My wife, when she dusts (not often enough-as I run out of the room) just uses a barely damp cloth.

6-Yep, it has a smell, but in my studio it just mixes with the smell of shellac, Deft, varnish, oil paint, all the other good smells of the work that I do.

Help this helps with the use of this product
Abe