Class M - replacing belts
- MTPhono
- Victor III
- Posts: 629
- Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2009 3:58 pm
- Location: Hayden, ID
Class M - replacing belts
I've got a Class M that needs new belts. Before I start the project, I was hoping for a few hints from the experts who have done it before. Looks a lot trickier that a Standard or a Home! Thanks in advance.
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- Victor IV
- Posts: 1198
- Joined: Mon Apr 26, 2010 3:13 pm
Re: Class M - replacing belts
Hi Scott-- I have learned a very easy and effective way to do the Class M belt-- Let Wyatt do it! As chronicled a few months ago, Wyatt stopped by my house in the fall and spent the day getting my Class M up and running-- and expertly installed new belts-- I found it to be one of the easiest jobs I've ever done!! I doubt he'll want to make a house call to Idaho though-- Perhaps he'll chime in with a few tips.
Brad Abell
Brad Abell
- MTPhono
- Victor III
- Posts: 629
- Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2009 3:58 pm
- Location: Hayden, ID
Re: Class M - replacing belts
Wyatt - plane ticket is in the mail! In the mean time, any suggestions?
Thanks Brad - great suggestion.
Thanks Brad - great suggestion.
- MicaMonster
- Victor III
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Re: Class M - replacing belts
The governor belt is 7/32” width. The main drive belt for the mandrel is exactly 5/16” wide. From the main pulley, you have to go under the idler pulleys, then over the mandrel. What you will find is that sometimes it helps to twist the belt 180 degrees before or after the idler pulleys to help with tracking. This can be done after the belt is fitted for length. On the Class M, there is usually a small screw under the right side of the casting, which is used to adjust the belt tension when the front and back slotted screws are loosened a bit.
you’ll need 1’ of 7/32” and 3’ of 5/16” belting, which I have. $16, delivered, and in stock.
you’ll need 1’ of 7/32” and 3’ of 5/16” belting, which I have. $16, delivered, and in stock.
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