Rebuilt Diamond Disc Reproducer Trouble

[VictorVV-X]

Hello all,
Back in March, I had my C-150’s reproducer rebuilt and when I got it back I was not impressed. In many ways it sounded better un-rebuilt. It blasts and buzzes readily and I’m not sure what to do. The diaphragm and gaskets were replaced, but the stylus was still good.

Is there anything I can do to fix the buzzing/distortion?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

[FellowCollector]

If you paid to have the reproducer rebuilt I would consider contacting the person who rebuilt the reproducer and explain your issues and concerns about the sound.

There are a number of conditions that might cause blasting and buzzing from a reproducer. I would not expect either condition to be present after a professional rebuild. Wyatt does an excellent job at rebuilding reproducers and he tests and listens carefully to each one before they get returned to the owner. So if all else fails I would consider sending the reproducer to him and when you get it back it should meet with your approval.

If you're comfortable with disassembling it yourself then carefully check the diaphragm and the gaskets. There must be absolutely no splits, pin holes or anything loose on the diaphragm. The linkage should be the correct length, be supple and connected securely to the diaphragm. The diaphragm should be centered perfectly within the gaskets before securing with the retainer ring. The threaded retainer ring must be tightened just right (not too tight and not too loose) for optimal sound results. Finally, the stylus must be completely compliant with the recorded groove and be positioned correctly with the playing surface when in playing position.

If a diaphragm is too tight within the gaskets it might cause blasting. It has occurred with my own Edison reproducers that I've rebuilt myself in the past and after I adjust the retainer ring the blasting was removed. Buzzing from a reproducer may be something loose. I'm super picky about sound from my reproducers and if there's something not sounding quite right I usually take it apart and examine everything. If I can't figure it out I send it to Wyatt.

Good luck.

Doug

[VictorVV-X]

If you paid to have the reproducer rebuilt I would consider contacting the person who rebuilt the reproducer and explain your issues and concerns about the sound.

There are a number of conditions that might cause blasting and buzzing from a reproducer. I would not expect either condition to be present after a professional rebuild. Wyatt does an excellent job at rebuilding reproducers and he tests and listens carefully to each one before they get returned to the owner. So if all else fails I would consider sending the reproducer to him and when you get it back it should meet with your approval.

If you're comfortable with disassembling it yourself then carefully check the diaphragm and the gaskets. There must be absolutely no splits, pin holes or anything loose on the diaphragm. The linkage should be the correct length, be supple and connected securely to the diaphragm. The diaphragm should be centered perfectly within the gaskets before securing with the retainer ring. The threaded retainer ring must be tightened just right (not too tight and not too loose) for optimal sound results. Finally, the stylus must be completely compliant with the recorded groove and be positioned correctly with the playing surface when in playing position.

If a diaphragm is too tight within the gaskets it might cause blasting. It has occurred with my own Edison reproducers that I've rebuilt myself in the past and after I adjust the retainer ring the blasting was removed. Buzzing from a reproducer may be something loose. I'm super picky about sound from my reproducers and if there's something not sounding quite right I usually take it apart and examine everything. If I can't figure it out I send it to Wyatt.

Good luck.

Doug

I did mention it to the rebuilder back in March, but they had said it sounded fine before they sent it back to me. With everything going on, I decided not to send it back and unfortunately the C-150 was sidelined. I am not uncomfortable taking the reproducer apart myself, I’ve done so on several cylinder reproducers to fine tune them. The one thing I did have trouble with on the Diamond Disc reproducer was trying to get the stylus bar off of the link. It seemed as though I would have to bend the metal connector to the bar to get it off.

[fran604g]

It could be that the new gaskets may have slightly shrunk, or the clamping ring (as it's called in Edison documentation) has loosened slightly. You should be able to insert a small screw driver into the spanner slot(s) and give it a little turn to carefully snug it up against the gasket.

Cheers,
Fran

[PeterF]

You should still send it back and have it adjusted. No rebuilder should ever give the response you received, or at least do so while expecting to stay in business. Word about such things tends to get around in our small hobby.

You can split the shipping costs.

Alternatively, there are many folks on here who can do the adjustments instead, and most of us for small or zero cost.

I’m disappointed to hear of this person’s negative approach.

[JerryVan]

As Peter suggests, if you're not satisfied with it, then the rebuilder should not be satisfied with it either. If for whatever reason the rebuilder can't do anything further to get it to your liking, then perhaps a refund may be in order. But, they should at least have chance, (and be willing to try), to correct things.

[VictorVV-X]

I apologize, I did not mean to imply that the rebuilder was not willing to have me send it back, I just did not want to send it back at the time.

I may try to fix it myself. With my experience with cylinder reproducers, I believe that the compression ring is too tight.

[MicaMonster]

Blasting and Buzzing come from two things: bad diaphragm (warped, and clamped in too tight), and bad needle bar fitment. A lot...and I mean....A LOT of “rebuilders” end up damaging the bottom of the weight because they don’t apply the right technique for removing the stylus bar pivot pin. The pins often rust in place, or corrode inside of the needle bar.

I’m willing to bet the farm that the pivot pin is the problem. I am fully equipped to fix this issue, so you and your repair guy can save face.

Wyatt

[VictorVV-X]

Blasting and Buzzing come from two things: bad diaphragm (warped, and clamped in too tight), and bad needle bar fitment. A lot...and I mean....A LOT of “rebuilders” end up damaging the bottom of the weight because they don’t apply the right technique for removing the stylus bar pivot pin. The pins often rust in place, or corrode inside of the needle bar.

I’m willing to bet the farm that the pivot pin is the problem. I am fully equipped to fix this issue, so you and your repair guy can save face.

Wyatt

Wyatt, I think you’re right. When I looked at the stylus bar a little closer, it does rattle in place. Also, the hinge block also has play up and down even with the screw completely tightened. The rebuilder had said he polished the reproducer. Perhaps this has something to do with it.

Right now, I am mainly focusing on my cylinder machines, so I am going to put the C-150 on hold for now. But I greatly appreciate your advice. It gives me some direction to go in.

[larryh]

I have had any number of replacement diaphragms before I came up with my own True Tone.. They buzzed regardless of gaskets, or other factors, they simply didn't respond well to the records and as was pointed out sometimes were worse than what I had before I replaced it. I am sure there are quite a few still offered that have poor somewhat dull sounding qualities.. When you hear a good diaphragm its often pretty amazing as to what they can do.

At this time I would be comfortable to recommend Wyatts new Diaphargm, or Mike (phonoboy on here) also has worked hard to come up with decent sound. That is something a while back just wasn't very common.