Fiber needle wear

[Inigo]

Might be. After the cut you must feel a very sharp point. Besides that, there is the problem of the angle of the cut. If the cut is very perpendicular to the needle, the point area is wider, and the needle results more robust and loud, but will wear out quickly. If the cut is more sloped, the point is finer, the tone is softer and the point may last longer.
I have two kind of cutters only, one old L&H which makes a sloped cut (maybe 30 degrees) and the HMV cutters, which make it more like 45 degrees. And after many years using bamboo, I've noticed what I'm telling you.

161375539305433689836.jpg

[barnettrp21122]

I've been using some quieter Nat Shilkret victor records from the late 20s. I think I figured out the problem, the needles work fine the first time around but once cut one time they can no longer make it through the record, so I must be using the cutter wrong. The fresh ones can make it through no problem.

Your cutting blade edge might be messed up, especially if someone tried cutting something other than bamboo. I'd check that first. The blade piece and other top assembly can be removed if the blade needs honing. Use some penetrating oil on the holding screws and use the proper-size screwdriver to avoid stripping the heads. These are usually quite tight.
When working properly the blade should cut neatly with just a small shaving of surface to renew the point.
Hope this helps!
Bob

[poodling around]

Might be. After the cut you must feel a very sharp point. Besides that, there is the problem of the angle of the cut. If the cut is very perpendicular to the needle, the point area is wider, and the needle results more robust and loud, but will wear out quickly. If the cut is more sloped, the point is finer, the tone is softer and the point may last longer.
I have two kind of cutters only, one old L&H which makes a sloped cut (maybe 30 degrees) and the HMV cutters, which make it more like 45 degrees. And after many years using bamboo, I've noticed what I'm telling you.161375539305433689836.jpg

My HMV bamboo cutter is very similar (if not the same) as yours. I had to buy a new and different columbia cutter though because the 'pushing down arm' started to bend because, I thought, the metal was designed too thin. (Maybe my home-made bamboo needles are too tough ?). Have you experienced any problems like this with the HMV design I wonder ?

[Inigo]

Not really.. the push lever in my two hmv cutters seems strong. I have the no4 (straight) and the no5 (inclined) and both are very similar. They're designed to be used with the needle in the sbx, directly allocating the cutter in the tt spindle, and descending the sbx on it so the needle rests on the triangular cradle, then push the lever and cut the needle. What happens is that the thump seems to be too strong a shock for the sbx, so I always use it by hand, taking the needle off the sbx and cutting it apart, on a table or in the border of the cabinet. it is a bit tricky because you have to learn how to place the needle on the cradle at the appropriate angle by hand.... you know, we are not living in the thirties so we must preserve Our Soundboxes from any rough treatment!
For some records I prefer this HMV 45° cut, but for others I prefer the 30° cut of the L & H cutter.
what I find to be very weak is the wire spring of the HMV cutter, mine are broken and I have substituted them by rubber bands, artistically enveloping the thing so it makes the same function as the spring.

[poodling around]

Not really.. the push lever in my two hmv cutters seems strong. I have the no4 (straight) and the no5 (inclined) and both are very similar. They're designed to be used with the needle in the sbx, directly allocating the cutter in the tt spindle, and descending the sbx on it so the needle rests on the triangular cradle, then push the lever and cut the needle. What happens is that the thump seems to be too strong a shock for the sbx, so I always use it by hand, taking the needle off the sbx and cutting it apart, on a table or in the border of the cabinet. it is a bit tricky because you have to learn how to place the needle on the cradle at the appropriate angle by hand.... you know, we are not living in the thirties so we must preserve Our Soundboxes from any rough treatment!
For some records I prefer this HMV 45° cut, but for others I prefer the 30° cut of the L & H cutter.
what I find to be very weak is the wire spring of the HMV cutter, mine are broken and I have substituted them by rubber bands, artistically enveloping the thing so it makes the same function as the spring.

Thank you Inigo.

This is probably a ridiculous question but what do 'sbx' and 'tt' spindle stand for please ? (Lockdown is making me more stupid than usual).

[barnettrp21122]

Not really.. the push lever in my two hmv cutters seems strong. I have the no4 (straight) and the no5 (inclined) and both are very similar. They're designed to be used with the needle in the sbx, directly allocating the cutter in the tt spindle, and descending the sbx on it so the needle rests on the triangular cradle, then push the lever and cut the needle. What happens is that the thump seems to be too strong a shock for the sbx, so I always use it by hand, taking the needle off the sbx and cutting it apart, on a table or in the border of the cabinet. it is a bit tricky because you have to learn how to place the needle on the cradle at the appropriate angle by hand.... you know, we are not living in the thirties so we must preserve Our Soundboxes from any rough treatment!
For some records I prefer this HMV 45° cut, but for others I prefer the 30° cut of the L & H cutter.
what I find to be very weak is the wire spring of the HMV cutter, mine are broken and I have substituted them by rubber bands, artistically enveloping the thing so it makes the same function as the spring.

Thank you Inigo.

This is probably a ridiculous question but what do 'sbx' and 'tt' spindle stand for please ? (Lockdown is making me more stupid than usual).

sbx="Soundbox"
tt="Turntable"

HTH FWIW LOL!
Bob

[Inigo]

Sorry for my abbreviations... I supposed every collector will understand... I'm writing with my mobile phone, and the 'word interpreter' fails each time I try to write soundbox, so I must write it letter-by-letter instead of fast sliding my finger through the keyboard, so I write it only complete the first time, then use sbx as an abbreviation... The same with turntable, then I use tt.

[old country chemist]

Hello Ho_Hum-interesting forum name, I have a good tune from the early 1930s of that title, I think on "Durium"
My next suggestion is for you to examine EACH FIBRE or BAMBOO needle before you play it. The "skin" side is always FACING TOWARDS THE TURNTABLE SPINDLE. WHEN INSERTED IN THE SOUNDBOX NEEDLE SOCKET. This is the way, as the skin is the outer part of the needle and has more strength than the inner "pithy"part-and this, when looked end on with a microscope there are many minute holes running down the length of the bamboo. Sometimes it is hard to see which is the "skin" side, but looking at the needle towards a light, and turning the needle between your fingers, you will soon see that the "skin" side is shiny-or should be! I should imagine that your record, if in good order, the needle should last a couple of times if all the other features are taken into account to get the best from them. I prefer THORNS more, as they give a cleaner sound, and break down less.
Perhaps my friend, Inigo will have some more advice for you, as he is a well established gramophonologist.

[poodling around]

Sorry for my abbreviations... I supposed every collector will understand... I'm writing with my mobile phone, and the 'word interpreter' fails each time I try to write soundbox, so I must write it letter-by-letter instead of fast sliding my finger through the keyboard, so I write it only complete the first time, then use sbx as an abbreviation... The same with turntable, then I use tt.

Very good ! Thank you as always Inigo.

It suddenly occurred to me that maybe the cutting 'wheel' needs sharpening ?

[poodling around]

Not really.. the push lever in my two hmv cutters seems strong. I have the no4 (straight) and the no5 (inclined) and both are very similar. They're designed to be used with the needle in the sbx, directly allocating the cutter in the tt spindle, and descending the sbx on it so the needle rests on the triangular cradle, then push the lever and cut the needle. What happens is that the thump seems to be too strong a shock for the sbx, so I always use it by hand, taking the needle off the sbx and cutting it apart, on a table or in the border of the cabinet. it is a bit tricky because you have to learn how to place the needle on the cradle at the appropriate angle by hand.... you know, we are not living in the thirties so we must preserve Our Soundboxes from any rough treatment!
For some records I prefer this HMV 45° cut, but for others I prefer the 30° cut of the L & H cutter.
what I find to be very weak is the wire spring of the HMV cutter, mine are broken and I have substituted them by rubber bands, artistically enveloping the thing so it makes the same function as the spring.

Thank you Inigo.

This is probably a ridiculous question but what do 'sbx' and 'tt' spindle stand for please ? (Lockdown is making me more stupid than usual).

sbx="Soundbox"
tt="Turntable"

HTH FWIW LOL!
Bob

Thanks Barnett - and you made me laugh in a good way !