Guidance/tips for Ultona Edison side reproducer rebuild?

[Tinkerbell]

There appears to be a dearth of information available for most things Brunswick, to include rebuilding an Ultona reproducer.

I've searched the threads on this forum, and did a more widespread search online, but was unable to come up with any specific guidance.

I've purchased a spare Ultona reproducer to, ahem, experiment/practice on... (would NOT want to try this cold turkey on my beautiful gold plated brass Ultona), and while the lateral side seems fairly straightforward, I could use some insight or advice for tackling the Edison side of the reproducer.

Does anyone have any guidance or insight for rebuilding Ultona reproducers? Info specific to the Edison side would be most helpful.

Thank you!

Tink

[Tinkerbell]

Bueller? Bueller? Anyone?? Anyone??

[gramophoneshane]

I was hoping someone would share their experiences with rebuilding one of these too.
I've never owned one, (actually I've only ever seen one in person back in about 1981) so I've never had the chance to pull one down. I was looking forward to hearing about them for future reference.
I believe they have a linkage similar to that on a DD, so I'd image the potential for that to break if handled improperly would be the same, but whether there are ways to make adjustments to improve sound quality like a DD reproducer, or hinge blocks and pivots that may need special attention, I really do not know.

Surely someone out there has played around with one of these before.

[CarlosV]

I once replaced the needle on the Edison side of an Ultona soundbox. The main challenge was to remove the steel axis out its holes. I was not able to push it out, so I had to resort to sawing out the needle shank (the Edison replacement I bought had a new needle installed in its shank, and it came with its own steel rod). After that, installing a new one was easy. There are no adjustments like in an Edison head. There is only a pair of rubber gaskets, which I replaced for new ones, and a screwed-on metallic disc to hold everything together. The connection to the mica diaphragm is exactly as in the Edison head, a silk thread with a little metallic eyelet at the tip. It was easy to install with a pair of pliers. The caveat in all this is that the Ultona I worked on was in relatively good shape, i.e., the pot metal had not deformed significantly and was (still is) swiveling easily between the different positions to play Edisons, Pathés or lateral cut discs.

Tinkerbell, if you ever try this, I recommend that you saw off the needle rather than trying to pull the axis out of its place - reason being that the whole soundbox, including the holder of the axis, is pot metal, and a bit of stress to push the axis off may break it.

[Tinkerbell]

Thank you, CarlosV, for your insights and advice.

I did buy a spare Ultona reproducer to tinker with for (lack of a better term) "training" purposes, but not having a clear cut plan for disassembly, I really didn't want to hose it up first time out of the starting gate. (Sorry for the mixed metaphors there...)

[gramophoneshane]

And a second thank you from me Carlos, and welcome to the TMF.
Intersting that Brunswick used exacty the same needle bar and linkage as Edison. I would assume Edison would have taken legal action, which would explain the second version Ultona minus DD capability?

[CarlosV]

Thanks for the welcome, Shane. I have been following this forum for a while, but used to post my contributions on the UK forum until I gave up after the forum was removed and reinstated three times after some members took it as medium to vent their personal grievances.

I have enjoyed over the years the multiple videos you posted on youtube mostly using your HMV to play always interesting music.

I am joining to this note two photos I just took of another ultona head, to illustrate my previous text. This one still has a worn out needle, that I plan to replace for a new one in the future. Photo 2 shows the thread that links to the mica, almost identical to Edison's (Edison has one that looks like a hook, while the Brunswick is an eyelet). For all practical purposes both are identical, but maybe the difference hook-eyelet was enough to deflect the lawsuit.

[larryh]

I am strictly guessing here! I have taken it apart and replaced the gasket in one of these. But my memory of how this went is lost.. Looking at the photos here I am wondering that since the Brunswick used a set of screws to remove the rim, if it will come out without breaking, (a big if), then under it would be the set of gaskets and the diaphragm with if I recall right might just all come out with a bit of careful prying leaving the diaphragm still linked to the stylus. It seems you could put in the new gasket at the bottom, place the diaphragm in, add the top gaskets and then screw it snug again? That may be wrong, but I know I replaced the gaskets in one and I don't think I took it totally apart. I have one here myself I want to try out for that exact reason. I may have to drag it out and see what gives.

I took a second look here. Maybe I took as I do on Edisons a tiny screw driver and pried the stylus rear hook open a bit to use a toothpick to slide the hook off letting the linkage loose from the outer pressure then of removing the cover. I don't think that the link is long enough to do as I mentioned above trying to take it all out as one piece. That may have worked if everything were fresh and not stuck to the reproducer body, but as they sit they tend to get stuck and take some effort to release at times.

Larry

[CarlosV]

Actually, replacing the gaskets is fairly easy, Larry. There is no need to unhook the thread from the needle. When the disc is unscrewed, the outer gasket becomes accessible. As it will be petrified, use a wooden spatula to lift the rubber gasket from the mica and then you can try to unglue the mica disc out by inserting the spatula between the mica and lower gasket. The mica will come out still linked to its needle and the metal disc, and the inner rubber gasket can be removed and replaced. After installing the new rubber gasket, place the mica in its place (well centered, so it does not touch the metal rim) and the new rubber gasket on top, and then you just need to screw the disc back in place.

The complicated part is replacing the diamond needle, as I indicated in my previous posting.

[Tinkerbell]

Does the diaphragm, needle bar (on the lateral side) and eyelet area (on the Edison side) get a dab of wax like on a Victor reproducer rebuild?

Thanks!
Tink