I have one of the reproduction #10 cygnet horns and would like to have it painted in the wood grain style. Does anyone know of someone who can do a proper job of this?
thanks
Pete
Wood graining a cygnet horn
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- Victor III
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- Victor III
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Re: Wood graining a cygnet horn
http://members.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl ... =phonomike
Not positive, but I think Mike did some of this. Check with him to be sure..
Steve S
Not positive, but I think Mike did some of this. Check with him to be sure..
Steve S
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Re: Wood graining a cygnet horn
Greg Cline definitely does it well. I don't have his info handy but someone else could probably provide it.
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- Victor Monarch Special
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Re: Wood graining a cygnet horn
I would also suggest Gregg Cline. I saw some of his work last year at Union and it was excellent. Jerry Blais
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Re: Wood graining a cygnet horn
You might try graining on a piece of metal yourself and see what you can do. I used to grain woodwork and furniture as well as a couple horns at one point. They really didn't come out badly, its just a matter of knowing a bit of how to proceed.
Normally a "base" coat is put on that represents the lightest coloration that you find in the wood color your trying to achieve. The color of this page background is similar to what Benjamin Moore Used to sell as a base coat. It worked well for oak and walnut shades. I even used it under mahogany with a slight redish tint added. When it is dry you can use over the counter wood stains the color your wanting and with some practice while its wet you can stroke though it with various sizes of brushes and create wood type grain in the glaze. In doing a more fancy realistic job it often takes several layers of progressively darker stains to achieve a realistic depth to the wood. All of which usually looks 100% better when coated after its all well dried with a semigloss varnish. There are combs made for oak and with some slight twist of the hand the little light quarter sawn effects can be easily replicated. Its really a lot of fun and you feel like you have accomplished something in the end. I am sure there are sources on line for showing the step by step techniques for doing what you want.
Nothing ventured nothing gained.
Normally a "base" coat is put on that represents the lightest coloration that you find in the wood color your trying to achieve. The color of this page background is similar to what Benjamin Moore Used to sell as a base coat. It worked well for oak and walnut shades. I even used it under mahogany with a slight redish tint added. When it is dry you can use over the counter wood stains the color your wanting and with some practice while its wet you can stroke though it with various sizes of brushes and create wood type grain in the glaze. In doing a more fancy realistic job it often takes several layers of progressively darker stains to achieve a realistic depth to the wood. All of which usually looks 100% better when coated after its all well dried with a semigloss varnish. There are combs made for oak and with some slight twist of the hand the little light quarter sawn effects can be easily replicated. Its really a lot of fun and you feel like you have accomplished something in the end. I am sure there are sources on line for showing the step by step techniques for doing what you want.
Nothing ventured nothing gained.