Victor 6

[JohnM]

Victor VI/6 originally were plated in matte gold — same gold-plating as used on Victrolas, for example — not bright gold. A previous restorer who didn’t know exactly what they were doing had yours replated in bright gold. When they did, they also plated the rim of the turntable which originally was nickel-plated. Matte gold is soft and would be quickly worn by the brake, so the rims were nickel which is much harder. Bright gold is harder than matte gold, so it should wear better, but isn’t historically correct. It’s the correct turntable, just improperly restored.

The part with the mail through it is called a ratchet gear, and the part that moves against it to prevent the crank from unwinding is called a pawl. Don’t wind it until you replace the soft nail with a steel pin. If the nail should shear, which is likely, all of the power of the springs will release and bad things will happen.

[Josh_boro20]

Thank you for that info, know I know I need to send the gold parts in to be correctly plated. Does anyone know of a reputable place to do nickel and gold platting?

[JerryVan]

Thank you for that info, know I know I need to send the gold parts in to be correctly plated. Does anyone know of a reputable place to do nickel and gold platting?

Nashville Plating Service has been highly recommended in the past. I have not personally used them however.

[JerryVan]

A parts supplier will have a suitable "tapered pin".
It looks like this example that's used in a clock motor ...
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I'm not certain that a tapered pin was used here. Assuming it's correct, you'll notice that the pin shown will be way too long. That's okay. You drive the pin in until it's tight, then trim the ends to suit.

Examine the hole in the ratchet wheel carefully. Look at each end of the hole to see if one end is noticeably larger than the other. If so, the tapered pin is correct. If not, you'll need to carefully measure the hole and find a straight pin that's a snug/tight fit.

[Django]

I just noticed that on my speed control arm. The two metal pieces came apart and now it is too short. My speed control arm must have broken at some point and then it was modified. Will a new arm and guide be difficult to track down?

Tracking things down is a big and rewarding part of the hobby, (finding them is more rewarding). Sometimes, you have to accept that the machine will not be 100% “historically” correct. Most of us strive for correctness, but to me anyway, saving and having a nice, usable machine is better than having a non-working and incomplete “correct” machine. I try not to do anything that is not reversible, (like adding holes). Regarding the yielding turntable, as Jerry B has pointed out, at one time early cabinet machines were considered to be good for parts to restore the external horn machines. From what I have read, the only difference between the Victor 6 motor and the Pooley VTLA motor was the yielding turntable, (the Victor 6 had a ball bearing setup). From what I have read, the bevel gear motor like yours should have the ball bearing setup. It would not be surprising to fine quite a few Victor 6 machines with motors donated from Pooley VTLAs. Many consider the Victor 6 to be extremely desirable and the Pooley to be less desirable. A good machinist could copy the parts to convert the motor if it was important to you, (there is no need to replace the entire motor. Or, you could just leave it as is and enjoy the machine, (same goes for the plating. Some owners modified the machines to suit their tastes back in the day).

Regarding the speed control arm, it is basically just a piece of flat stock with a hole and welded top a “stirrup”. If you can find one, great. If you can’t, any decent machinist could replicate that part as long as they had the dimensions. Regarding the guide, I recently made one for my Pooley VTLA. I took the dimensions from the one on my Victor D, (Early Victor V). I could share the dimensions with you if you would like. The part is made from 1/32” thick, (.03125”) steel. With enough patience, it could be made my hand. I am fortunate enough to have a Bridgeport with a 2 axis CNC control, so I machined mine. It is probably more difficult to machine a thin sheet metal part than it is to make it by hand. It’s surprising what you can do with a file and snips.

Best of luck whichever way you go. You can get a reproduction Mahogany Spearpoint for about $1,100.00. Because your machine looks nearly new, the reproduction horn would probably be a perfect match. It’s a beautiful machine and well worth any effort put into it.

The image of the full, 1906 Pooley VTLA shows an original speed control arm and guide. It looks like the arm is cut short, like yours, and a shott, cylindrical part added. I would expect the Victor 6to have the same setup, so you might not need an arm, just the extension. Maybe someone has a better picture or more details.

[OrthoFan]

.........................In Look For The Dog, he says that the yielding turntable VI began in 1908, which would have had the later, worm gear motor. The link that you posted confirms that the bevel gear motor VI should have a ball bearing setup and no yielding turntable.

Thanks for the clarification, which is stated better than what I wrote. (I should have said, "later models," etc..)

OF

[Roaring20s]

This leads me to believe my motor is correct for my machine. Is yours marked 6 or vi?

It's marked with a 6.

All of the comments made thus far have been enlightening.

[Josh_boro20]

Maybe I just need a extension, your pooley motor looks identical to mine. This thread has been very informative. What should the shad of gold look like on the parts? Are all my gold parts incorrect?

[Django]

Maybe I just need a extension, your pooley motor looks identical to mine. This thread has been very informative. What should the shad of gold look like on the parts? Are all my gold parts incorrect?

I looked back through the thread and saw that an image from Roaring20s shows the same extension. He pay be able to provide measurements and the method of attachment.

The tone arms and reproducers were often polished gold. The other parts tended to be dull. It is up to you, but unless it bothers you, I wouldn’t have anything but the turntable, (Nickel) and the elbow, (Gold) replaced, Platings can be carefully dulled by hand, but too much can ruin the plating.

The motor seems to be correct with the exception of the spindle, (yielding rather than ball bearing). The bigger risk is damaging the motor board because your machine doesn’t have the rubber bumpers that Roaring20s machine has.

[Josh_boro20]

Does the spindle remove easily?