Restoring VV 4-7 and Need Advice

[FloridaClay]

At least on my VV 9-15, they are indeed machine screws--going through the motor board and into metal from the horn below to draw everthing together. I supsect this is the case with most Orthophonics. Wood screws would likely damage the metal screw hole threads on the horn assembly. Also note whether the part of the horn assembly the screws thread into is potmetal and, if so, be careful about overtightening.

Clay

[Aross]

I've got the exact same reproducer problem here. Mine's in about the same shape, but I found that the rubber in under the little plates on the sides of the needle was crumbled almost to dust and a few little bearings came out when I opened it. Some were completely frozen inside what must at once have been rubber. Does anyone have a good description of how these go back together (which gaskets go where and in what order) along with where the bearings are actually suppoded to go? I can't find a diagram anywhere that shows their proper placements.

Thanks!

[MarkELynch]

Thank you for the well presented set of questions!

The mounting bolts are not ¼-24 but the equally obsolete #14-24. Number fourteen bolts are slightly smaller, 0.242” major diameter versus 0.250”. A ¼-24 bolt will bind in the #14-24 threads. Best to buy original bolts salvaged from a machine. Victor used many #14 bolts such as the screws securing the rear cabinet panel on the Orthophonics and the four bolts securing the magazine base on the 10-50.

The tone arm bearings are ⅛” diameter. A common bicycle and hardware store size.

The stop peg on the soundbox crook is threaded into the crook. To remove, just use a close fitting slotted screwdriver and turn counter clockwise. When reinstalling just be careful to get it started straight.

Let us know how things turn out.

Mark

[JerryVan]

I've got the exact same reproducer problem here. Mine's in about the same shape, but I found that the rubber in under the little plates on the sides of the needle was crumbled almost to dust and a few little bearings came out when I opened it. Some were completely frozen inside what must at once have been rubber. Does anyone have a good description of how these go back together (which gaskets go where and in what order) along with where the bearings are actually suppoded to go? I can't find a diagram anywhere that shows their proper placements.

Thanks!

Aross,

You would be better off posting your questions in a new thread, rather than adding on to a 13 year old posting. I makes things confusing. Also, include photos of your reproducer when you re-post your questions.

[Ortho4-7]

I've got the exact same reproducer problem here. Mine's in about the same shape, but I found that the rubber in under the little plates on the sides of the needle was crumbled almost to dust and a few little bearings came out when I opened it. Some were completely frozen inside what must at once have been rubber. Does anyone have a good description of how these go back together (which gaskets go where and in what order) along with where the bearings are actually suppoded to go? I can't find a diagram anywhere that shows their proper placements.

Thanks!

If you’re referring to the needle bar bearings, I wasn’t able to find any straight answers either. From what I could glean, Victor changed things up during the production run, with some having just bearings and others having rubber washers to keep the bearings in place. The bearings were long gone on mine (either due to swollen pot metal or a previous owner’s tampering), and I saw no evidence of rubber washers. After much experimentation, I made rubber washers from thin slices of ⅛” ID tubing (available from player piano shops), and sandwiched the bearings between these two “washers”. Not only does this keep the needle bar roughly centered during assembly, but it also keeps the bearings in neat circles and stops them from rattling or walking out through the center.

[OrthoFan]

I've got the exact same reproducer problem here. Mine's in about the same shape, but I found that the rubber in under the little plates on the sides of the needle was crumbled almost to dust and a few little bearings came out when I opened it. Some were completely frozen inside what must at once have been rubber. Does anyone have a good description of how these go back together (which gaskets go where and in what order) along with where the bearings are actually suppoded to go? I can't find a diagram anywhere that shows their proper placements.

Thanks!

If you’re referring to the needle bar bearings, I wasn’t able to find any straight answers either. From what I could glean, Victor changed things up during the production run, with some having just bearings and others having rubber washers to keep the bearings in place. The bearings were long gone on mine (either due to swollen pot metal or a previous owner’s tampering), and I saw no evidence of rubber washers. After much experimentation, I made rubber washers from thin slices of ⅛” ID tubing (available from player piano shops), and sandwiched the bearings between these two “washers”. Not only does this keep the needle bar roughly centered during assembly, but it also keeps the bearings in neat circles and stops them from rattling or walking out through the center.

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I hesitated answering here because, as Jerry noted, this should have been a new post, and not an add-on to an existing post made 13 years ago.

Anyway, in the design of the Orthophonic sound box, as described by Maxfield and Harrison, the pivot post, itself, was magnetized and the steel balls held in place, on either side of the post by magnetic force. While I have never been able to find information as to why and when the rubber retainer rings were used, it's easy to guess that, due to rough handling, the balls would shift or pop out of their seats.

About 30 years ago, I wrote a short article describing "repair" steps almost anyone can make to improve the performance of an as-found Orthophonic sound box. I've attached a PDF copy here --

Restoring the Orthophonic Sound Box.pdf

(236.2 KiB) Downloaded 15 times

--since the original website no longer exists. Keep in mind, the best course is to have the sound box overhauled by a professional who cares about sound quality. (30 years ago, there were very few.) Also, the steps described take into account the fact that the sound box is in good condition, with no extreme swelling or cracks.

HTH,
OrthoFan