Orthophonic Reproducer Disassembly Tips?

[wilsaxo]

I'd like to disassemble some of my Orthophonic reproducers that appear to have solid pot-metal housings. How is it done? What tools, prep and techniques are involved?

Here's what I've guessed:

1. Spanner type tool similar to that used on bicycle bottom brackets. I've bought one for bicycles and filed it to fit the retaining ring holes, and spread the width to match the spacing of the holes. (this is the type of tool that I use to remove the retaining ring from the vintage Conn saxophone tuning barrel in my saxophone repair work)

2. Penetrating oil to wick into and around the retaining ring (or should the whole reproducer be soaked?)

3. Method to hold the reproducer while unscrewing the ring?
* vice around outside or strap style wrench
* some method of holding the inner part that attaches to the tonearm either from the outside, inside, or by a bar through the 2 screw holes, or is this part too fragile?

I've tried asking on another forum with no replies.

Thanks!

[Henry]

Welcome to the board, wilsaxo. Now I have another outlet/receptacle for saxophone jokes!

Q: What's the difference between a saxophone and a chain saw?

A: You can tune a chain saw.

Henry (ex-trombonist---the best kind, some would say)

[Lucius1958]

Welcome to the board, wilsaxo. Now I have another outlet/receptacle for saxophone jokes!

Q: What's the difference between a saxophone and a chain saw?

A: You can tune a chain saw.

Henry (ex-trombonist---the best kind, some would say)

Now that's totally inappropriate:

that's properly a hurdy-gurdy joke.....

[Orthophonic]

First off, this looks like a great board! I love messing with orthophonic soundboxes and the way I did it to take them apart was to cut a soundbox sized hole in a short piece of 2x4 and cut a slot for the needlebar/bearing part to fit into. The slot was continued to the end of the 2x4 and bolts with nuts into each end. The solid side bolt was to keep the wood from splitting; the slotted end was to tighten it up on the soundbox body so you can have a way to hold it. To get the needlebar out, I made a c-clamp with a sleeve on one end to go inside the bearing race and arounf the needlebar pivot; the other end is a small shallow cup to fit over the other end of the pivot. Tightening the c-clamp pushes the pivot out without damage to the needlebar or the rest of the soundbox and you have the room to properly clean and polish the items. I bought 5000 bearings for them so that I'd have plenty of them and I use the tiny rubber cups salvaged from a laptop keyboard to hold the bearings in if magnetism fails. Victor used rubber for this on later soundboxes and kits for these come with rubber tubing that you can cut; I like the laptop parts much better as they exert much less force on the bearings and are free for the taking where I work; just slice 'em out with a exacto knife:-) Hope this helps, I enjoy knowing that an old Victrola has been saved from oblivion!

[frenchmarky]

For removing the ring I made a crude little tool out of a small block of wood with two bolts thru it which I used to crank on the two slots in the ring. Have always just held the box in my hand when doing it, maybe I'm lucky I haven't punctured myself yet. Did maybe half a dozen and they always came off, If I ever run across one that doesn't want to come off I'll worry about something better.

I only pushed in/out one needle bearing rod and it involved a vise as a makeshift bearing press and a miscellaneous plastic part from my junk bin that pushed on the rod end. TOO improvised to bother describing it : )

Now you got the word from an expert ; )