Applying Shellac Finish?

[XCaptBill]

In the past when restoring a radio or phonograph using a shellac finish I have applied the shellac with a brush. I have tried different brush types, but I've never been completely satisfied with the results. Perhaps I'm too picky. I'm wondering how others are applying their shellac and are you pleased with the results? Does anyone use a sprayer? Thoughts, comments and suggestions are welcome!

[alang]

I also started using a brush and also was never really satisfied with the results. Then I tried using a tightly rolled cotton pad to wipe it on. I use very thin shellac, diluted quite a bit with denatured alcohol. You have to resist the urge to go back and forth, only one wipe per go. I like the results much better than with the brush. But I am far from being a pro, so I hope other will chime in as well and provide more advice.
Thanks
Andreas

[XCaptBill]

Andreas,

I have used cotton applicators from Woodcraft. They worked well, but it's difficult to get into tighter and hard to reach areas. I liked this method pretty well but still used a brush to get to the small tight areas.

Like you, I cut the Varnish quite a bit and put on a bunch of thin coats. It usually takes me a while because I like to let each application dry for a couple of days before I sand it in preparation for the next coat.

Bill

[martinola]

Hi Bill.

Like you, I'm always trying to get better results with shellac application. Lately, I've been using a 1" sable artist's brush and rather liking the results. If I did more restorations or was working on larger machines I'd try to get something like a 2" sable artist's brush. I still spend a lot of time putting on a LOT of coats and doing quite a bit of sanding, but I really do think the sable artist's brush is a bit better for application. That said, if you ask me next month I might give a different answer.

Regards,
Martin

[johannes]

Get some cotton wool so when you cover it with a pure cotton sheet ( I use old bed sheets) it forms a ball, about the size of a golf ball. This is after you twist it to compress the cotton.
Then place it in your shellac mixture and then press it, or tap it several times against a flat surface to form a flat polishing medium. Make sure there is not too much shellac in your rubber (the term used for this polishing wad)because too much will remove the base surface you are about to polish. Then place several drops of linseed oil on your rubber and work it on your surface in circular motions and if possible in figure eight motions which assists in filling the grain.
When you use your rubber in straight strokes, use it in a motion like an aeroplane lifting off and landing, otherwise you will have an excess build up where you stop on either end.
When you place shellac on your rubber again place very small amounts so it is basically damp. Your layers have to be built up very slowly and because the layers are very fresh placing too much polish on the rubber will remove previous coats. If it gets sticky place more linseed oil on your rubber surface.
The linseed oil will always be on the surface after you finish and this can be removed by "spiriting it off" I use a clean piece of cotton sheet over my cotton wad and place a few drops of a weak solution of shellac and work the surface until my rubber is almost dry. Some people use pure Denatured alcohol or Methylated spirits as it is known in the UK.
Hope this helps.
There is an art to faking old finishes but this takes time and several layers of different aniline dyes.

[Player-Tone]

I am curious, how was the original shellac finish applied at the factory?

[johannes]

Mike, I am not so sure all of them were Shellac base. I do believe the later finishes were a resin base. Very likely Copal varnish.
However, shellac finishes were always applied in the age old French Polish methods described above. All fine furniture was also done in this fashion. Some were applied with a "mop" which is a brush, often made from squirrel hair or various other fine hair. This finish is not as fine but when used, the majority of the finish was applied in this fashion, then cut back with pumice powder and then the rubber was used for the final finish.

[Player-Tone]

Mike, I am not so sure all of them were Shellac base. I do believe the later finishes were a resin base. Very likely Copal varnish.
However, shellac finishes were always applied in the age old French Polish methods described above. All fine furniture was also done in this fashion. Some were applied with a "mop" which is a brush, often made from squirrel hair or various other fine hair. This finish is not as fine but when used, the majority of the finish was applied in this fashion, then cut back with pumice powder and then the rubber was used for the final finish.

Thanks!

[Brad]

I use the same method the Andreas describes. I use a rolled up piece of cotton fabric. I too use diluted shellac and have a plastic bowl and a "ketchup squeeze bottle" (like you get in a restaurant). I dip the rolled fabric in the shellac in the bowl, and make a fast single pass. Then back to dip in the bowl, then the next swipe with slight overlap with the wet edge of previous swipe. After 2 coats, I give a very light sanding with and extra fine foam sanding block (just to break and ridges) and the do 2 to 4 more coats. The squeeze bottle give you a very fast way to add shellac to bowl when you need more.

If you are looking for that pure mirror finish that you see on things like grand piano's, this method will not achieve that, but unless you grain fill and smooth the wood which is typically required for oak or mahogany, you cannot achieve a mirror finish.

I have had very good results with this method.

One recommendation: If you can get your hands on a trashed cabinet that is not salvageable, practice on it, you will be surprised about how easy it is to get good results.

[XCaptBill]

Brad and Johannes,

Thanks for the replies regarding the French Polish method. I have entertained the idea of going with that on my next project. I've been a little apprehensive since I have not done it nor have I seen it done before. Your suggestion of practicing on something before using it on a good item is what I was thinking of doing. I have some scrap mahogany pieces left over from a stand I'm making for my mahogany VV-50. That stand is actually one of the items I will be finishing this fall as well as the VV-50, when the weather is less humid here in Florida.

Bill