Replacing Plaster on Blue Amberol Cylinders

[Jerry B.]

I did a quick search on replacing plaster missing plaster on Blue Amberol cylinders but could find nothing. I'd appreciate any good suggestions. Thanks, Jerry Blais

[Phonofreak]

Jerry, I mentioned this before, but here goes: I buy latex wall patch from Home Depot or a good home improvement store. Then I fill in the missing spaces with the wall patch. Let dry, completely. When dry the wall patch will shrink. You will have to do it in layers. After everything is level, and even, use your reamer so it will fit the mandrel. The only draw-back is the ridges wil be gone. That is a good chance to get these cylinders back to playing condition. Good luck,
Harvey Kravitz

[Jerry B.]

Thanks Harvey, I'll give it a try. Jerry

[phonogal]

I have used plaster of paris. Dries quickly and doesn't shrink and you can ream it with a reamer. You can get it at any hobby store. It don't know how well it will hold up over time but I have a couple that I filled over a year ago and they still are fine. Anybody else tried this.

[Phonofreak]

I never tried Plaster Of Paris, even though that was originally used. I guess I'm too lazy to mix this stuff up. A fellow collector told me about using latex dry wall patch in layers and ream. I'm sure both methods will work fine.
Harvey Kravitz

[phonogal]

I never tried Plaster Of Paris, even though that was originally used. I guess I'm too lazy to mix this stuff up. A fellow collector told me about using latex dry wall patch in layers and ream. I'm sure both methods will work fine.
Harvey Kravitz

Harvey, The good thing about the Plaster of Paris vs the dry wall patch is that it doesn't shrink and you can mix it stiff enough that you can apply once and fill the area. It's really inexpensive(for a couple bucks you'll have enough to last a life time) and doesn't go bad like the dry wall patch. You just mix it with a little water to the consistency you want and apply it. Works really well.

[ambrola]

Plaster does work well. I always try to get some old plaster off of junk cylinders to mix in with the new stuff so it isn't completely white. You just take the old plaster and add a little water to break it back down.

[Phonofreak]

When I use the dry wall patch, it does shrink when drying. That's why I do layers. Once it dries, it doesn't shrink any further. It is good and solid, and strong. Once you ream it, it doesn't fall apart. It remains in the cylinder. A good size tub goes for about 3-4 bucks. The next time I have to restore a BA, I'l try that plaster method, and compare. Thanks for the info.
Harvey Kravitz

[FellowCollector]

All (or most for sure) of the Blue Amberol cylinders I have ever encountered over many years of collecting that have lost plaster have developed a slight depression in the celluloid that was supported by the missing plaster.

This slight depression in the celluloid surface created by the missing plaster often results in some audible distortion as the reproducer stylus navigates over this area in the celluloid.

Since the plaster was originally pressed into place inside the celluloid skin of the Blue Amberol cylinder I'm curious whether replacing the plaster using any of the aforementioned methods removes the depression in the celluloid from the missing original plaster.

Please accept that I'm not challenging any of these methods or substances used since I've never tried repairing or replacing plaster in any Blue Amberol cylinders I've purchased over many years. I'm only curious here.

In most instances I toss the cylinder out unless the amount of missing plaster is small enough that there is no resulting depression in the celluloid.

Doug

[phonogal]

Doug, I've found that replacing the plaster only works on the cylinders that have a small amount of plaster missing on the ends. If the cylinder has a depression it can't be fixed by replacing the plaster because the celluloid has shrunk. This is my experience, other's may have had better luck. Jan