Copper electroplating

MidMich · Post by **MidMich** » Sun Feb 05, 2017 8:05 pm

I have been wanting to try electroplating for some time now and I finally got a chance after reading up on it. I am amazed how easy it was. First I was lucky enough to pick up a used Vigor PM 270a Jewelry Electro Plater on Ebay. I opened it up and was shocked how simple it was inside. It has a 120V step down transformer with 2v,4v,6v,8v and 10v leads that go to a voltage selector switch and from there to your basic full wave bridge rectifier, The positive lead has what looks to be a small old style neon lamp and then it goes to the anode jack, The negative goes to the "work" jack. That is it and these things sell in the many hundreds of dollars. A low voltage wall power supply would work. This unit is rated for 2 amps and does not even use condenser to filter the output.
For the copper acetate I mixed cheap 5% white vinegar with cheap 3% hydrogen Peroxide in a small pint mason jar, a 50/50 mix. Then put it in the microwave foe 1.5 minutes. I had a hard time finding a pure copper scouring pad and when I did finally find one it was made in China and was not pure as it was labeled. It was copper coated steel.
For the next step you put the copper pad in the solution in the mason jar and it gets hot and turns blue. Or in my case blue then brown. I had to toss the first attempt due to this. I finally had to strip a few feet of stranded copper wire and ball it up and use that. The copper wire worked great. After It turned to a nice shade of blue, I removed the copper, capped the jar and let it soak in some cool water.
This link shows how to do it.
https://www.instructables.com/id/High-Q ... er-Plating
Here is a link to the rectifier's manual
http://www.nawcc-index.net/Articles/Vig ... _Guide.pdf
Today I clipped a new quarter and lowered it into the solution and turned the power on at 4v. Everything worked as advertised. Next will be a nickel plate set up.
Jeff

MidMich · Post by **MidMich** » Sun Feb 05, 2017 9:44 pm

Here is a photo of the copper wire that I used for the anode. It is just a section of 6 gauge that I picked up at a hardware store, behind it is the balled up stranded copper wire that I used 50/50 vinegar/hydrogen peroxide mix to make the Copper acetate.
The photo of the small mason jar contains the Copper Acetate mixture. I had to use a layer of plastic wrap under the lid because the mix is acidic.
The other photo is of the Vigor PM 270A Electro Plater that is used by jewelers. This has a very basic circuit and would be easy to build.
Jeff

Mr Grumpy · Post by **Mr Grumpy** » Mon Feb 06, 2017 9:26 pm

Very cool Jeff, thanks for sharing. I have a small brush-on or dip kit that just uses a wall/dc adapter that I use for copper and nickel. I find the copper attaches to raw steel much better than the nickel and the nickel attaches better to the copper. It also helps distinguish between metals if you go from bare steel to copper to nickel.

Mr Grumpy · Post by **Mr Grumpy** » Mon Feb 06, 2017 9:30 pm

If you're running low on projects, maybe you can crack that thing open again and make a quick schematic of the circuit so some of us with more time than money can try building one from scratch?

No worries if you can't, I'm almost, kind-of joking.

phonogfp · Post by **phonogfp** » Mon Feb 06, 2017 9:36 pm

Mr Grumpy wrote:If you're running low on projects, maybe you can crack that thing open again and make a quick schematic of the circuit so some of us with more time than money can try building one from scratch?

No worries if you can't, I'm almost, kind-of joking.

Vince, I use an electric train transformer for HO trains. You can vary the voltage to exactly suit your needs, and these transformers can be had for only a few dollars (used) at train shows. As long as it's DC output, it will do the job.

George P.

MidMich · Post by **MidMich** » Tue Feb 07, 2017 6:59 am

Mr Grumpy wrote:If you're running low on projects, maybe you can crack that thing open again and make a quick schematic of the circuit so some of us with more time than money can try building one from scratch?

No worries if you can't, I'm almost, kind-of joking.

I will do better then that I will take a photo of the inside today and post it. It is very simple. Multi lead step down transformer, 120v to 2v/4v/6v/8v/10v. From there it goes to the voltage selector switch and from there it goes to and square aluminum body four post full wave bridge rectifier. The kind you can buy at Radio Shack. Negative lead goes to the "work" post and the positive goes to what looks like a old style small neon lamp with the numbers "SB717C1H" on it and then to the "anode" post. that is it. I was surprised that it did not use any filter condensers. This is 2 amp unit that would normally sell for $350 in the jewelry trade. Every thing that I have read shows that you normally use the 2v setting. I did plate some more change last night and mixed up 2 liters of the Copper acetate solution. So it does work as advertised. I have some of the Krohn's Bright Nickel solution and some more anodes coming in from Esslinger's watchmaking tools this week. Their Nickel solution is not the nickel Acetate mix, but a Nickel Chloride/Nickel Sulfate solution.
http://www.esslinger.com
I can not find any data on the SB717C1H component, it maybe a diode?
Jeff

Mr Grumpy · Post by **Mr Grumpy** » Tue Feb 07, 2017 3:21 pm

Thanks Jeff, I'm not sure what that component would be either. They're pretty pricey units for how simple they are, maybe I'm in the wrong business?

Thanks George, that's a pretty brilliant idea, I'll keep my eyes and ears open for one of these as well.
Maybe when I find one I can paint it red and sell it as an electroplate machine for $300. I wonder what the demand for these things is?

Henry · Post by **Henry** » Tue Feb 07, 2017 4:04 pm

phonogfp wrote:
Vince, I use an electric train transformer for HO trains. You can vary the voltage to exactly suit your needs, and these transformers can be had for only a few dollars (used) at train shows. As long as it's DC output, it will do the job.

George P.

Just be sure you don't use a Lionel O-gauge transformer. Those have AC outputs! Of course, you could feed that to one of the Shack's full-wave rectifiers, which are very affordable. Top voltage for a Lionel is typically 18-20 VAC.

phonogfp · Post by **phonogfp** » Tue Feb 07, 2017 4:40 pm

Henry wrote:
phonogfp wrote:
Vince, I use an electric train transformer for HO trains. You can vary the voltage to exactly suit your needs, and these transformers can be had for only a few dollars (used) at train shows. As long as it's DC output, it will do the job.

George P.
Just be sure you don't use a Lionel O-gauge transformer. Those have AC outputs! Of course, you could feed that to one of the Shack's full-wave rectifiers, which are very affordable. Top voltage for a Lionel is typically 18-20 VAC.

Right - no Lionel unless it's one of their odd DC transformers from the late 70s (not many of those around). HO is the cheapest and most readily-available route.

George P.

MidMich · Post by **MidMich** » Tue Feb 07, 2017 5:33 pm

Ok here is the inside photos. A member on another board identifed the mystery "neon" tube. Ha, all it was is a inline glass tube thermal overload. Yep, a fuse with points! So the circuit is extremely simple a multi lead step down transformer and a radio shack full wave bridge rectifier. that is it. Not bad for $350. and you know it works because they have been using them in the jewelry trade for decades. They use these to plate Gold, Silver, Copper, Nickel and Rhodium.
Jeff