removing screws from reproducers

[dale h]

I currently have a Victor #2 and an Exhibition in need of rebuilding. Having the same problem with both, some of the screws holding the covers on are stuck and I am afraid I will ruin the slots if I turn any harder.

Used the search function and tried Kroil (already knew that) and putting them in the freezer (that was new, so I tried it, too), but no luck. I picked the petrified outer gasket off the Exhibition hoping to get some Kroil into the threads from inside, but it hasn't helped. Also tried heating the screws with a soldering iron held against their heads. Still nada.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks

Dale H

[phonogfp]

I've had good luck with heat. Just a few seconds with a propane torch set low...

George P.

[JerryVan]

If you don't already have one, don't even begin to try removing these screws without a good quality, properly fitting, screwdriver.

After you apply some moderate heat with a propane torch, as suggested above, apply some of the Kroil. As the reproducer cools down, it should draw in some of the Kroil.

[JeffR1]

I go out and buy a new quality screw driver and grind it to fit the concave shape or the slot and make sure it's snug fitting into the slot.
Just snug, but not so tight it won't engage totally into the slot.

And a heat gun with your favorite penetrating oil.
A heat gun takes longer but there is less risk of melting pot metal.
I also tap the head of the screw with a small hammer while it cools.
I keep this up intil it comes loose.

This also works on the goose-neck end screw.
The heat gun doesn't discolour the nickel.

[Inigo]

Just a curiosity... A hair-dryer would work.. although more time would be needed to get the reproducer as hot...? Or placing it under the sunlight...

[dale h]

Been afraid to try too much heat for fear of melting the pot metal but a hair dryer should be fine. Thanks for the tip. I will give it a shot. Then Kroil and then rap with a small hammer. Got it.

I do have a good set of gunsmith's screw drivers, so I think I am OK there. Unfortunately, a previous owner has already messed up some of the slots and sheared off one of the screw heads.

Thank you all for responding.

Dale H

[fmblizz]

what about a solder gun or solder iron directly on the screw,,, can't hurt if thats what you have.

Blizz

[JerryVan]

Been afraid to try too much heat for fear of melting the pot metal but a hair dryer should be fine. Thanks for the tip. I will give it a shot. Then Kroil and then rap with a small hammer. Got it.

I do have a good set of gunsmith's screw drivers, so I think I am OK there. Unfortunately, a previous owner has already messed up some of the slots and sheared off one of the screw heads.

Thank you all for responding.

Dale H

- There is zero pot metal to worry about in an Exhibition** or Victor No. 2.
- A hair dryer will not get you the heat you need.
- When rapping with a hammer, (good idea), use a brass hammer.


**With the rare exception of an Exhibition Jr. reproducer.

[JeffR1]

Yes, a hair dryer is not hot enough.

It takes light tapping with a hammer, a small upholstery hammer that's used for tacks works well. (not the split end)
They are steel, but you're tapping too hard if you start to "mushroom" or distort the head.

Patients and repetition: heat-oil-tapping-cool try to remove.

It has to be hot enough so when you add the oil it sizzles.
It should be too hot to handle with your bare hands, but not so hot it burns you, especially if your dealing with a Orthophonic reproducer.

[Frisco The Beagle]

You might try TIGHTENING the screws. Sometimes when the slot is boogered up from attempts to loosen it, you can still get good traction tightening. If you are able to tighten it - even slightly - the oil has a better chance of penetrating. Good luck!!!