VV2-55 Spring Question

[Lah Ca]

I have two VV2-55s, one in quite good condition except for a main spring that let loose, the other with quite badly worn motor but with a functional spring.

I have removed the motor from the second machine thinking I would have a go at cleaning and repacking the spring before I move on to the better motor and try to replace or reattach the spring.

It looks easier enough to remove the spring barrel from the motor--there seems to be one nut securing it.

However, it does not look like there is an easy way to open the barrel. It appears to be riveted together.

Is this correct? And if this is correct, was the machine never intended for (easy) service? How does one get the spring barrel apart and back together? Drill and re-rivet?

Here are pics of a VV2-55 motor seemingly identical to mine. (Mine is still greasy and thus quite unphotogenic.) You can see the one nut. You can also see the rivets.

[Lah Ca]

With further examination and consideration, I think there is no reason that the barrel could not be reassembled using screws, either self tapping ones or ones with lock washers and nuts. There is sufficient clearance above and below the gear plate on the barrel to allow for either option.

[JerryVan]

With further examination and consideration, I think there is no reason that the barrel could not be reassembled using screws, either self tapping ones or ones with lock washers and nuts. There is sufficient clearance above and below the gear plate on the barrel to allow for either option.

Exactly! Or, use new rivets. I would opt for screws, however. Show us what's inside once you get it opened up.

[Jim_Cannon]

I drilled the rivets out on mine one at a time and threaded the barrel for a small machine screw, then moved to the next rivet. One it's all together with screws, mark the barrel and top so that they go back in the same exact position. Then disassemble, clean, grease, and reassemble with screws. I did not use nuts, just threaded the barrel.

[Lah Ca]

With further examination and consideration, I think there is no reason that the barrel could not be reassembled using screws, either self tapping ones or ones with lock washers and nuts. There is sufficient clearance above and below the gear plate on the barrel to allow for either option.

Exactly! Or, use new rivets. I would opt for screws, however. Show us what's inside once you get it opened up.

I drilled the rivets out on mine one at a time and threaded the barrel for a small machine screw, then moved to the next rivet. One it's all together with screws, mark the barrel and top so that they go back in the same exact position. Then disassemble, clean, grease, and reassemble with screws. I did not use nuts, just threaded the barrel.

Thanks.

[Lah Ca]

I drilled the rivets out on mine one at a time and threaded the barrel for a small machine screw, then moved to the next rivet. One it's all together with screws, mark the barrel and top so that they go back in the same exact position. Then disassemble, clean, grease, and reassemble with screws. I did not use nuts, just threaded the barrel.

What size tap and screws did you use?

Thanks

[Hoodoo]

I took a look at a very thrashed VV-2-55 that I had in the garage and see that it has been converted to screws.
Tom

[Curt A]

"What size tap and screws did you use?"

First locate an appropriate sized set of screws that will fit - then find the matching tap, rather than trying to find a specific size...

[Jim_Cannon]

I drilled the rivets out on mine one at a time and threaded the barrel for a small machine screw, then moved to the next rivet. One it's all together with screws, mark the barrel and top so that they go back in the same exact position. Then disassemble, clean, grease, and reassemble with screws. I did not use nuts, just threaded the barrel.

What size tap and screws did you use?

Thanks

I used #4-40 machine screws.

[JerryVan]

"What size tap and screws did you use?"

First locate an appropriate sized set of screws that will fit - then find the matching tap, rather than trying to find a specific size...

The first step is to measure the holes in the barrel, then compare that diameter to the "tap drill" sizes for various threads. Whatever tap drill size aligns with the existing hole will dictate what thread to use. For instance, the 4-40 thread size used by Jim, would need a #42 tap drill, (.0935"). However, if the holes are larger than .093", then maybe a 5-40 tread would be better, (tap drill size #37, (.104" dia.))

Also, consider drilling the unthreaded element a bit larger, as a clearance hole for the screw.

Last, put the thread in the piece that has the greatest thickness, whether it's the gear or the barrel, to generate the most possible threads.