I like a good project. (First machine of 2026)

[AmberolaAndy]

You're forgiven

Your pulley isn't ruined, just not pretty. You will have a really hard time removing the pulley unless you polish down the plier marks on the shaft. Those burrs will likely not pass easily through the pulley.

Should I just use a steel wool pad or what would you use?

I would use a strip of emery cloth placed around the shaft and stroked back & forth until the high spots are removed. You could also use a very fine file to carefully take down the burrs. You don't need to remove the marks entirely, just the high spots/burrs.

Emery cloth! Guess I'll put that on my Ace Hardware shopping list! I REALLY don't want to resort to using a hacksaw to get them off! But I have NEVER came across a pulley and upper gear that is THAT frozen before! I really hope Uncle Bubba didn't weld the darn pieces on as so bad they are stuck on! PB Blaster so far is doing NOTHING! That's how bad they are stuck on!

[JerryVan]

Emery cloth! Guess I'll put that on my Ace Hardware shopping list! I REALLY don't want to resort to using a hacksaw to get it off! But I have NEVER came across a pulley and upper gear that is THAT frozen before! I really hope Uncle Bubba didn't weld the darn pieces on as so bad they are stuck on! PB Blaster so far is doing NOTHING! That's how bad they are stuck on!

Did you try heat?

[AmberolaAndy]

Emery cloth! Guess I'll put that on my Ace Hardware shopping list! I REALLY don't want to resort to using a hacksaw to get it off! But I have NEVER came across a pulley and upper gear that is THAT frozen before! I really hope Uncle Bubba didn't weld the darn pieces on as so bad they are stuck on! PB Blaster so far is doing NOTHING! That's how bad they are stuck on!

Did you try heat?

I'm putting a heat gun on my shopping list too. Should I get the full size one or the handheld one? I want to do this right, I want the proper tools. I don't want to break the casting.

[Couch Potato]

Last month I got a Standard D for $100 with a Horn and frozen bushing. It took about 4 hours of careful chiseling to break up about ½ of the pot metal bushing, and a lot of pounding the arbor shaft with a same sized dowel with a hammer from the left side and finally started to incrementally move out that shaft. That thing would not turn at all without much force being used. Once shaft was out drilled progressively larger holes into the bushing until it was all gone. What I did not expect was spending 2 more hours putting in the replacement. Both it and the shaft needed polishing and I used 2000 grit sand paper gently to do so. Installed it and when I put in the special set screw with the oiling hole to hold it I put it in a bit tight which resulted in distorting the bushing and it not being free to turn. I had to redo that three times. In the end I got it up and running again.

I though it would be like a 15 minute task but that was not the case. I feared I would break the casting but I did not. While I was beating on it I just had to tell myself it was only $100 so it's not the end of the world if it breaks. It had a good motor, spring and H Reproducer so I felt for the money I would still come out ahead.

The gear and belt pully were also very unpleasant to remove but tapping the shaft that goes through them eventually worked.

Others mentioned heating. Maybe a cold cycle is in order in the freezer for 4-5 hours?

Be patient and good luck.

[Dave D]

Many people use vise grips on the mandrel shaft where the pulley will hide any damage. Just be very careful that you don't bend the mandrel shaft or you will never get an even sound out of this.
You can get a mini torch at Harbor Freight which will produce a small flame to accomplish what Jerry Van suggested. A heat gun will be too broad with the heat. You want it very localized. Heat it until you see the oil turn to liquid again.
Dave D

[AmberolaAndy]

Many people use vise grips on the mandrel shaft where the pulley will hide any damage. Just be very careful that you don't bend the mandrel shaft or you will never get an even sound out of this.
You can get a mini torch at Harbor Freight which will produce a small flame to accomplish what Jerry Van suggested. A heat gun will be too broad with the heat. You want it very localized. Heat it until you see the oil turn to liquid again.
Dave D

Welp. I already bought a heat gun. I thought about the torch but didn’t want to deal with an open flame.

[AmberolaAndy]

Many people use vise grips on the mandrel shaft where the pulley will hide any damage. Just be very careful that you don't bend the mandrel shaft or you will never get an even sound out of this.
You can get a mini torch at Harbor Freight which will produce a small flame to accomplish what Jerry Van suggested. A heat gun will be too broad with the heat. You want it very localized. Heat it until you see the oil turn to liquid again.
Dave D

Ok I bought a torch. I hope this is the correct one…

[JerryVan]

That should work. (If you don't like open flames, use it outdoors.)

[AmberolaAndy]

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That should work. (If you don't like open flames, use it outdoors.)

I’ll try my soldering iron first just in case, but yep this is a outdoors job!

[AmberolaAndy]

All I know is even if the torch works or not, I'm just gonna get a replacement mandrel, pulley and gear! The ones on here were already damaged by a previous owner and I am certainly doing no favors to them! I'll just hit up Yankee Trader/The Phonograph shop/Ebay and get replacements for all these parts...It's not worth damaging the castings. Plus it will certainly play way better.