What are some opinions about polyurethane
varnish brushed on?
I am quite familiar with using that stuff.
Have not yet done any phonograph cabinets, but
have used it on many other things with very nice results.
An upcoming project is an Edison Standard
model B which belongs to the Atlanta, Illinois
museum. It is mechanically pristine. It
runs perfectly, and is very tight.
Just last week I was there and oiled it up,
set the speed, and made some test recordings
and played them back. Mechanically perfect.
Wooden case has issues though.
Someone stripped it. Stain is even, but needs
varnish. Also needs decal. Needs cheesy
dedication plaque removed. Plaque is currently screwed to the front with 4 small brass roundhead wood screws. Those holes need filled and smoothed, then decal, then varnish.
I am considering taking this on myself to
help them out.
Any ideas or thoughts or pointers?
Need to find out what the proper decal is,
and then how to properly apply it.
Thanks in advance.
Chuck
Refinishing Tips - Look!
- Chuck
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Re: Refinishing Tips - Look!
"Sustained success depends on searching
for, and gaining, fundamental understanding"
-Bell System Credo
for, and gaining, fundamental understanding"
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- alang
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Re: Refinishing Tips - Look!
I would never use polyurethane on any phonograph. I've seen it many times and it looks terribly wrong. Much like using chrome plate instead of nickel plate on a phonograph before 1930. Especially a machine for a museum should be refinished using the proper period methods and materials.
A Standard B should correctly be finished with shellac as described in many threads on this forum. Excellent decals can be obtained from Greg Kline at http://phonodecal.com. He also provides very good descriptions on how to apply these decals properly.
Good luck
Andreas
A Standard B should correctly be finished with shellac as described in many threads on this forum. Excellent decals can be obtained from Greg Kline at http://phonodecal.com. He also provides very good descriptions on how to apply these decals properly.
Good luck
Andreas
- Chuck
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Re: Refinishing Tips - Look!
Well I was just asking because someone
else mentioned earlier in this thread about
"spray a coat of clear on and it's done"...
What kind of "clear" is that?
Certainly brushed on poly would be better
than that? Or not? Right now the cabinet
in question is flat stained only with a very
ugly and cheesy dedication plaque bolted on.
Anything is better than that.
Isn't shellac kind of a big hassle to use?
That was always my impression of it.
How much experimentation and testing do
you reckon it would take for someone who
has never used shellac before, to get practiced up to the point of being able to
do a reasonable job?
I asked about poly because that's what I know
for sure how to use. I would have to start
completely from scratch with shellac.
Sorry if I asked a dumb question.
Chuck
else mentioned earlier in this thread about
"spray a coat of clear on and it's done"...
What kind of "clear" is that?
Certainly brushed on poly would be better
than that? Or not? Right now the cabinet
in question is flat stained only with a very
ugly and cheesy dedication plaque bolted on.
Anything is better than that.
Isn't shellac kind of a big hassle to use?
That was always my impression of it.
How much experimentation and testing do
you reckon it would take for someone who
has never used shellac before, to get practiced up to the point of being able to
do a reasonable job?
I asked about poly because that's what I know
for sure how to use. I would have to start
completely from scratch with shellac.
Sorry if I asked a dumb question.
Chuck
"Sustained success depends on searching
for, and gaining, fundamental understanding"
-Bell System Credo
for, and gaining, fundamental understanding"
-Bell System Credo
- alang
- VTLA
- Posts: 3116
- Joined: Thu Aug 19, 2010 9:36 am
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Re: Refinishing Tips - Look!
I only started using shellac a few years ago, following advice mostly found here on this forum. My biggest problem was that I used it right out of the can, which makes it very thick and difficult to use. Now I dilute it with about a third denatured alcohol, which makes it more forgiving. And the great thing with shellac is if you screwed it up you just wipe it off with alcohol and start again. That's not so easy with poly etc.
The other poster probably used the available clear shellac spray from Zinsser, which I have not tried yet. I always used the orange shellac in the can. I know, purists will use shellac flakes and cut their own shellac, but I have not advanced to that level yet.
We are all caretakers for these great pieces of history, so I think we have a responsibility to do our best to preserve them as historically accurate as possible. Of course, it is everyone's own decision what to do, but you asked for opinion and advice...
Andreas
The other poster probably used the available clear shellac spray from Zinsser, which I have not tried yet. I always used the orange shellac in the can. I know, purists will use shellac flakes and cut their own shellac, but I have not advanced to that level yet.

We are all caretakers for these great pieces of history, so I think we have a responsibility to do our best to preserve them as historically accurate as possible. Of course, it is everyone's own decision what to do, but you asked for opinion and advice...
Andreas
- Chuck
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Re: Refinishing Tips - Look!
Well thank you Andreas for your good advice!
I offered this following scenario to the museum: Since I am not really experienced at
all with applying the decal and the proper
finish to this cabinet, I did offer to remove
the entire motor and bedplate, and then ship
the cabinet out to someone who can apply
the decal and finish it properly.
I told them that I would do the removal and
re-installation work of the mechanical parts
free of charge, and that they would pay
shipping to/from whomever does the work, and
for the cabinet work itself.
However, I could just tell by the lukewarm
response I got from the curator there, that
this machine will sit just like this until
I myself take it home and finish it!
The thought of spending the required time
doing all sorts of decal-applying experiments
beforehand, and then all sorts of shellac
experiments enough to be proficient enough
to tackle this cabinet are both tiring to think of.
Mostly because, during the summer
season here in Central Illinois, I am
pretty much busy 24 x 7 producing brown
wax blanks, and taking time to learn
about decals and shellac is not really in the cards.
I have already taken this museum machine under
my wing and have it mechanically adjusted and
running right. It just looks ugly.
Thanks for the ideas. I will think about them. -Chuck
I offered this following scenario to the museum: Since I am not really experienced at
all with applying the decal and the proper
finish to this cabinet, I did offer to remove
the entire motor and bedplate, and then ship
the cabinet out to someone who can apply
the decal and finish it properly.
I told them that I would do the removal and
re-installation work of the mechanical parts
free of charge, and that they would pay
shipping to/from whomever does the work, and
for the cabinet work itself.
However, I could just tell by the lukewarm
response I got from the curator there, that
this machine will sit just like this until
I myself take it home and finish it!
The thought of spending the required time
doing all sorts of decal-applying experiments
beforehand, and then all sorts of shellac
experiments enough to be proficient enough
to tackle this cabinet are both tiring to think of.
Mostly because, during the summer
season here in Central Illinois, I am
pretty much busy 24 x 7 producing brown
wax blanks, and taking time to learn
about decals and shellac is not really in the cards.
I have already taken this museum machine under
my wing and have it mechanically adjusted and
running right. It just looks ugly.
Thanks for the ideas. I will think about them. -Chuck
"Sustained success depends on searching
for, and gaining, fundamental understanding"
-Bell System Credo
for, and gaining, fundamental understanding"
-Bell System Credo