The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

Welcome. Hope you will continue to keep us posted with pics as your project progresses.

Clay

Update on the acid. When I put a few drops on there, I can see it reacting but after about 15 to 30 minutes it seems to stop so I've been adding a drop every so often.

Still running acid on it and the shaft is still frozen. Although I was able to chip away
some of the pot metal bearing. Here's how it looks now. The white is the acid foaming up.

I have no cylinders to play on this unit when I get it running, should I be looking for 4 or 2 minutes cylinders, black or blue?
For instance, will a 4 minute Edison Blue Amberol Cylinder work on this unit?

Thanks
Alan

AlanD wrote:I have no cylinders to play on this unit when I get it running, should I be looking for 4 or 2 minutes cylinders, black or blue?
For instance, will a 4 minute Edison Blue Amberol Cylinder work on this unit?

Thanks
Alan

The model D machines are geared to play both 2 and 4 minute cylinders. You will need the appropriate reproducer(s), typically a C for 2 minute (black) and an H for 4 minute records. You can also get a K which has 2 styli and can play both, but you'll probably find the C and H are a better choice.

Yes, with an H reproducer you can play Blue Amberols, wax Amberols, or any other 4 minute cylinder record (including Indestructibles, U-S Everlasting, etc.)

Don't play brown wax records with a C reproducer, you'll need an earlier type like a B or an Automatic for that.

Good luck!

Here's a pic of the bed deck so far. I just put the pieces back on it as sort of a mock-up.
Next comes the painting and re-decaling of the deck. (and ordering a new bearing of course)

Should I try to remove the Edison serial number plate or just mask it off. I'm also wondering if I should sand blast the whole thing or just wind brush the rusty spots. What do you guys usually do?

Alan

I would remove the ID plate. The little nails cannot be saved, and have to be replaced. When you take off the ID plate, you will have a smooth surface to work with. I would first sand off the loose paint and rust with 100 grit paper. Then I would wire brush the rest. Where the paint is good, I'd leave it alone. With the wire brush, I would feather the spots so it will be even. For my paint, I would use Krylon Gloss black fusion paint, because it is very durable and will not crinkle the other paint. You don't need primer with it. Let the paint cure for about a week. Then you can apply the decals following the instructions. That has worked for me with excellent results. Also get Eric Reiss's book The Complete Talking Machine, which can be bought from dealers, Amazon, or ebay.
Good luck with your project.
Harvey Kravitz

I agree with Harvey's advice - except I have saved and re-used the little rivets that secure the data plate. You cut these rivets from below, and then they'll readily push out. Once you're ready to re-mount the data plate, simply put a small drop of generic glue (you don't need Gorilla Glue) in each empty hole. Put the plate and 2 rivets in place and let the glue dry. Nothing to it. Should the plate ever need to be removed in the future, it's a simple matter to remove the glue from below.

Keep up the good work!

George P.

Thanks for the info, George. I never thought of that. That save the bother of getting escutcheon nails from the hardware store.
Harvey Kravitz

As for repainting: if you want to be thoroughly authentic, you should use black asphaltum (as has been mentioned elsewhere here).....