The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

Congratulations! You got yourself a very good deal...

Bill

Amrose, good for you. I had a model like this when I was a boy (around 1953 !) Wish I still had
it! I'm not a newbie, I'm now 70 ! I was wondering, was this "Savers" in Massachusetts? I shopped
at one around this time and another customer informed me that something like this was sold "yesterday"
at about this price. I live in Massachusetts myself. The advice on needles is good, but unless the
records you get are dirty or worn, I use a steel needle ONCE only, with a preference for soft tone,
as sound boxes in good shape usually are quite loud enough with that, and records last longer. Finally,
I'd say in particular 78's from the 1950's can usually be quite strident, tinny, and have a much shorter
life on machines of this vintage. Better stick to pre-1930 things, although certain later ones can still
sound acceptable.

Amrose,

Welcome. You are off to a great start with what looks to be a good machine at a great price. I am with you on needles. I NEVER use ones found loose inside a machine. New needles are very cheap and while most 78s are not worth very much, there are some rare and valuable ones and it takes awhile just starting out to get a feel for that.

Something that will likely need attention sooner or later is the reproducer (the round part at the end of the tone arm where the needles goes). They generally have rubber gaskets that dry out and become hard as a rock over the years and these should be replaced. There are lots of threads on this site about reproducer rebuilds.

Clay

Congrats on your new machine and welcome to the Phonograph world (disease)..... )

After your first one, You'll be hooked!

Not bad for a 1st machine, Not bad at all. You sure got your money's worth.

Contact George Vollema at Great Lakes Antique phonograph for any missing screws or parts. He's on the web.

)

Tony K.

Edison Collector/Restorer

Amrose,

What fun! Thanks for sharing your enthusiasm!

"Quick and Dirty" used/new needle detection trick (forget where I got it):

Hold needle base between thumb and fore finger and spin needle back and forth in good light. Tiny sparkle at the tip indicates a flat spot, which means that needle is used.

"Betchya can't [buy] just one!"

-Michael Schlick

Schlick wrote:Amrose,


Hold needle base between thumb and fore finger and spin needle back and forth in good light. Tiny sparkle at the tip indicates a flat spot, which means that needle is used.

WOW! I tried it and it works. What a Schlick trick!

bandleader wrote: I was wondering, was this "Savers" in Massachusetts? I shopped
at one around this time and another customer informed me that something like this was sold "yesterday"
at about this price. I live in Massachusetts myself.

Yes, it was the Savers in Hanover, MA. If it turns out to be the same one, what an amazing coincidence.

Work has kept me from posting or making too much additional progress. However, attached are some progress shots from the GoJo cleanup I've managed so far. I split the front in half and only worked on one side at a time so 1) I could better show the before and after and 2) didn't get over whelmed by the extra details and more difficult nooks to clean. The lid required some extra attention.

What you see so far is a result of a couple rounds with the GoJo, 0000 steel wool and some finger nail scraping. The difference is pretty amazing. Suggestions for further improvement? I hope to be back soon with progress under the lid.

Looking good, it is amazing how much you can bring a machine back.

I have never had to tackle that much paint, so I don't know of any sure fire solution. If I were faced with a similar situation, I would probably try a couple of things:

1 - I would hope that the paint is adhered to a hardened layer of wax, oil, and dirt and not directly to the finish. I would use gojo or kotton kleanser and let some sit right at the boundary of the paint and then with my finger nail see if a little more paint lifts due to the surface grime dissolving underneath the paint. If so, I would work my way a little at a time. Others have reported that Gojo and KK have softened the original finish. I have never experienced this, but if so, you run the risk of affecting the original finish by continual and repeated application of the cleaner. So go slowly observing what is happening and adjust your strategy accordingly.

2 - Apply some heat to soften the paint. This is tricky and risky as you will also be heating the original finish. If I tried heat, I would use a light bulb or maybe a hair drier. I would not use a heat gun! I would warm the area enough that the wood underneath is warm too and use a plastic (not metal) putty knife and carefully attempt to push the paint. Use a narrow putty knife and go slowly. You may have to apply heat, scrape a little til it cools, and repeat. Again, go slow, pay close attention to what is happening, and adjust your strategy as you go.

You will not end up with a pristine factory finish so you will have to accept that it will not be perfect. Also, when you show off your machine to your guests, the lid will be open and the top surface will not be visible so your guests will not even notice any imperfections.