The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

Jim. et al:

When I get back to it, I will check the back-rod. I do have have the timing-marks at the "crank-end" of the machine ( a good question though ! ), and I found the dimples in the rod from the grub screws, and tried to line them up with the holes before installing / tightening the grub-screws.

That's not to say there might not be a slight "smile" in the back-rod.

I'll have to see if I have some really good, thick plate-glass that I can use as a surface-plate, and give the back-rod a roll and see if it's "lumpy".


Regarding the orientation of the half-nut / spring to the the feedscrew: I assume the threads on the feed-screw are "pitched", and that the long-edges of the spring should be perpendicular to the feed=screw ?


I guess the "Test of tests" will be to have this beast pull its way through cylinders while "dragging" a 14" witches-hat.

Here are some comments from my experiences:

Rule #1: If it worked well before you cleaned it, it should be able to work well after.

I have noticed that sometimes when I really polish the back rod on some machines, sometimes the carriage will bind because of the lubricating oil being to thin (i polished it too much). The test is to slide the carriage back and forth with the feed screw bar lifted off the feed screw. It should slide very easy and not bind anywhere. Change the oil viscosity if you can.

The Home D should be the easiest to adjust because you only have one adjustment screw and the half nut bar is factory seated to align with the feed screw.

Raise the feed screw bar so it does not contact the feed screw and then slide the carriage back and forth in the running position. Does it bind?

Steve