The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

Thanks for all the input and great advice I am very grateful!

Yes this machine is in great shape - though I have little to compare with, having seen only one other one in my life and I think that was in Portobello Rd in 1964 (it was really beat up).

I´ve looked a little at the soundbox and as far as I can make out all the rubber parts seem to be elastic and in good shape, so I guess it´s a question of tuning.

One thing that does seem to be a problem though is how the arm moves - it doesn´t move freely from side to side (I´ve balanced the case well with a water measure) but when you move it, it comes to places where there is more resistance, it´s as though it were moving on ballbearings that are no longer completely round. It may be that something has happened during the move (from the UK to Spain - let me tell you that was quite an ordeal!). When we packed it the previous owner unscrewed the arm and bubblewrapped it (seemed a reasonable idea). He showed me how to screw it back on and said to be careful not to open it up as the ballbearings would be all over the place.

I´m a bit wary to open it up - and find it almost impossible to get them back where they were... does anyone here know how this part works? Are the ballbearings caught in i ring or loose in there? Should I simply open? Or use oil from above? Although it looks as though if I pour oil in from above it would collect dust in there...

The motor (a doublespring Garrard) looks to be original, there are no old screwholes and the crank has only one hole in the side of the box. It´s very silent and runs well although maybe the springs are a bit tired - it won´t play two sides. No rumbles though!

Anyway to know what year it´s from? The previous owner said he´d heard about 1933, said he bought it in an antiqueshop years ago.

snallast wrote:
Anyway to know what year it´s from? The previous owner said he´d heard about 1933, said he bought it in an antiqueshop years ago.

This might help Hakan?
http://forum.talkingmachine.info/viewto ... 11&t=15383

Steve

snallast wrote: I´m a bit wary to open it up - and find it almost impossible to get them back where they were... does anyone here know how this part works?

The ball bearings are small and loose and are not held in a cage (unlike later EMG equivalents) so that when the cap is removed they are free to fall out. The correct adjustment is for the cap just to "nip" the balls very gently so there is no slack but no over-tightness either---a happy balance. Too loose is better than too tight.

The first thing to do is to check whether the cap is too tight causing the unwanted friction you have mentioned. Release the knurled lock ring under the cap (turn clockwise viewed from the top) which will allow the cap itself to be unscrewed (anti-clockwise viewed from the top) and see if a slightly reduced pressure setting will give you the smooth tonearm swing you need.

It is of paramount importance not to tighten the cap too much or there is a danger of indenting the relatively soft brass faces against which the hardened steel balls roll.

If you are unable to remove the "notchy" feel with reduced pressure, either the balls are not spherical or I am afraid a previous owner may have already made indentations by over-tightening which means you have a problem which can only be rectified by re-machining. Hopefully this will not be the case.

Do not be afraid to dismantle but the process will be easier if you first remove the whole tonearm complete with bearing housing from the wooden deckboard (three screws) and unscrew from the internal conduit. You will already be familiar with this process I believe. Next, place everything in a dish or tray and totally remove the cap but be ready to catch the balls (two rows) ! Examine them carefully under a loupe or magnifying glass having first degreased them. Wash out the housing and cap in a similar fashion and examine carefully for dents. If all seems well, reassemble with light grease, gently reset the adjustment and lock in position with the ring. The grease has a double purpose: 1. To lubricate the balls---do not use too much. 2. To ensure an airtight joint---particularly important where the tonearm butts against the main bearing casing. Bass frequencies can be reduced or lost if there is a possibility of air escaping at this point.

Thankyou Emger!

Luckily I´ve been handling it as a precision-piece-of-machinery so I hadn´t done anything yet... I did as you said and yes it sort of fell into place and now moves perfectly! It had been to loose. What luck!

What´s more I tried tweaking the soundbox a little and after the first time it sounded much worse, but the second time it improved a lot and now sounds great! (Don´t know what I did - am going to have to have a tweak-diary or something) Now I won´t touch it - unless it gets untweaked again.

As for the year of production, thanks Steve - it would be between 1930 to 1933 then, because on the little sign the address is 55 Rathbone Place.

This Forum is so great! What would I have done without your help.

snallast wrote:So now I´ve joined the lucky Expert owners, and I´m delighted!

I have 2 questions though: (I´ve read everything Expert-EMG-related on the Forum and The EMG Story, what an excellent book!)

one is: how does one "tune" this unusual soundbox? It does sound great in the bass and middle register but has very little response on the high notes.

The other question is, is there any point in thinking it might be a good idea to get some weight of the soundbox? It´s awfully heavy and half of my records (the worn ones) won´t play through before the needle is shot. Or should I simply accept this is the way it´s built?

Hakan

I have had my machine now since late summer 2014 .
A slightly later Junior with white horn and light oak cabinet .4 spring box. I love it !
I almost never use steel needles now ,and nearly always bamboo at the moment .I have been searching out records by the ton ,I mainly like 1920s , or Artie shaw swing or similar . But also like earlier acoustic as well .I have found that most records will play with the bamboo without much trouble .BUT not at first . Sometime s a mint record won't play at first ,A worn one won't , yet after cleaning and a few playings they improve no end . Sometimes there is sound deterioration near the end but you have to expect it with a worn record . I have also found a light application of microcrystalline wax will also greatly improve the sound and playability ..Apply dry and buff .play and buff maybe a couple of time s. then another day it may not play properly but after a few plays it will improve and then be ok .
Experiment is the only way .