The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

I just picked up some very dirty edisons. The rag was turning black when the sides were wiped. I used the Windex for the first time the past week and I personally like it better than the denatured alcohol. It seems to maintain the shine of the record better and leave less dull film on the surface. I am please with this discussion.

Larry H.

Later DDs were coated with Stearine, to reduce wear. I wonder if any particular cleaner will remove that coating ...

ps - correction: "stearin" ... hmm, if Edison used alcohol to dissolve the stearin, wouldn't it be removed by cleaning the DDs with alcohol?

Is it possible that the run off light markings are due to the Steairne on the surfaced? I have sometimes noted that some record will show a light run off when another may not. Still often its the stylus to blame.

Larry

I intend to continue to use windex but I think one should re-clean with it because the shine that it leaves may be a soap or oil either of which may have both advantages and disadvantages. The advantage is lower friction drag and less record and Diamond ware if the oil, wax, grease etc stays very very clean. The disadvantage is that any of these will attract dirt and grit including that caused by the stylus ware on the record forming a lapping compound that will ware records and the stylus! There of course, will be the dirt caused by the ware of the record due to the stylus in the bottom of the grove in any case that should be cleaned out even if you do not use windex as it will ware the record and stylus also.
Allen

Hi all,
Please excuse my technical side my wife quite often says TMI to me but I have given additional thought to this topic. (1) The pressure at he contact point of the stylus on the record is ungodly high as the contact area is extremely small. (2) Stearin or Stearine (animal fat) and or most oils and greases may not be up to properly lubricating the interface of the record and stylus. Any of them certainly would leave a shinny surface and might reduce to some extent the friction force but that might not assure there is not ware in the grove. For very very high pressures and high sliding friction applications it is necessary to use additives in the grease. I will have to do some research to identify what grease should be used as I did not specialize in lubrication as a research engineer and at this time do not think I am knowledgeable enough to make a suggestion. I did do both bevel gear and dental coupling testing to failure but used the lubricants specified by the manufacturers
My apology if this is TMI,
Allen

Hi All,
I thought I had recall that Molybdenum Disulfide was a good high pressure high sliding additive for grease and in my search I found a spray that dries rapidly and sets in 30 min. for only $10. It will adhere and bond to metal, glass, plastic, and wood etc. with very very low coefficient of friction. it is also a dry lubricant and should therefore not attract dust and grit etc. I have ordered two 12 oz. cans and will report on it's performance. This is called Jet-Lub Moly-Mist. The price varies a lot depending on the source. If you choose to try it I would suggest cleaning the record fully before its application so that no dust and debris of record material etc. is in the grove.
Allen

Hi All,
I received the Moly Mist today and will warn you that the propellant is flammable and comes with a host of warnings. It is not child safe and I am concerned in that though I do not think Condensite is soluble I am also not certain of that! I hope to purchase a animal bristle brush to spray it on to let the propellant evaporate and then try to apply the dry lubricant to the record by physical transfer. I am not sure this physical transfer will work as I understand the molybdenum disulfide is suspended in a unique bonding agent (glue). More than likely the Etheryl Aerosol is needed for the bonding agent. I am concerned that the propellant might dissolve a plastic bristle brush. My fears may be unfounded but better safe than sorry. Although I worked with many chemicals in my life I was a Mechanical Engineer not a chemist.
Allen
P.S. any Chemists out there?

Hi All,
It has been suggested that this info. should appear in the tips and tech section rather than machines so in the future I will put any of my posts on this topic there. Please excuse my earlier post here.
Allen