The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

Posted: **Sat Jan 02, 2016 8:35 pm**

Good advice Doug. Jerry

Posted: **Sat Jan 02, 2016 9:19 pm**

I'd take the U-tube (crook tube) off the machine before I started pouring or spraying Power Goo, DW50 or whatever else on the flange.

Posted: **Sat Jan 02, 2016 9:41 pm**

Is this a common occurrence with the gold-plated goosenecks ?

I have a 1909 L-door, with gold-plated tapering tube and the Exhibition is stuck the same way as Steve's...

To rebuild the reproducer, I undid the two mounting screws to remove the reproducer from the machine, then made a thin gasket of rubber sheet to get an air-tight seal against the old rubber back-flange.

I would like to eventually replace the rubber flange with a new one...

The big end-plug screw is also stuck tight in the gooseneck...

I can't say that I've run-into stuck Victor reproducers on machines with nickel plating...

Posted: **Sat Jan 02, 2016 10:03 pm**

I use a similar approach to the above, always use a penetrating oil giving it 24 hours to work and then instead of heat, I place the parts in the freezer overnight. If not rusted, this has always worked for me.
Blain

Posted: **Sun Jan 03, 2016 11:03 am**

FellowCollector wrote:
oldphonographsteve wrote:I think I have run into the worst case scenario: the brittle old rubber flange broke in two. I am now stuck with the brass ring stuck on the tone arm. Though, it did budge slightly after the WD 40. Now what should I do?!

-Steve
What you need to do is fairly simple and easy. I've removed plenty of stuck reproducers and the Exhibition is pretty easy once you know how.

1. remove the 2 gold plated screws that are holding the old rubber flange (what remains of it) to the body of the reproducer by turning the screws counterclockwise

2. now you have removed the most important part of the Exhibition reproducer and only the old rubber flange remains stuck to the gooseneck. You can now see what is holding the flange good and tight. Get some pliers and remove what you can of the remaining old rubber flange by simply and carefully pulling it away from the gooseneck.

It would be easier to do this by first removing the gooseneck itself from the tonearm by carefully removing (turning counterclockwise) the gold plated gooseneck screw that attaches the gooseneck to the tonearm.

3. now that the body of the reproducer is out you can see that the rubber flange was secured to the gooseneck with a metal collar.

Carefully (!!) using Channelock pliers or some other pair of pliers that allow you to "feel" when you have just enough tension on that ring, turn the ring counterlockwise until you see that the collar "key" is positioned appropriately to allow that collar to be pulled straight out.

4. pull the collar straight out and you are done!!

Go slow. Go carefully. Use some lubricant around that collar to help ease it out. Be very careful using the pliers. You'll do just fine.

5. call Ron Sitko to purchase a new rubber flange. Put it on the body of the reproducer, install it and you are ready to use your reproducer again. While it's out rebuild it with new gasket material that Ron also has.

Good luck,

Doug

Wow! Thanks so much for the step by step instructions, Doug! I will get to it as soon as my Dad gets pliers tomorrow. By the way, I am a big fan of your Youtube channel.

-Steve

Posted: **Sun Jan 03, 2016 11:40 am**

oldphonographsteve wrote:Wow! Thanks so much for the step by step instructions, Doug! I will get to it as soon as my Dad gets pliers tomorrow. By the way, I am a big fan of your Youtube channel.

-Steve

You're very welcome, Steve. If you need any further assistance just send me a PM and I'll do everything I can to help you. Just go slow and carefully and you'll do just fine. After you do it once you should have no problem with removing any other stuck Exhibition reproducer.

And my sincere thanks for your gracious comments about my YouTube channel. I'm pleased that you enjoy the videos. The channel provides me with a fun way to share and hearing from thoughtful folks like you is very gratifying.

Good luck and let me know if I can help further!

Doug

Posted: **Sun Jan 03, 2016 11:43 am**

Retrograde wrote:I'd take the U-tube (crook tube) off the machine before I started pouring or spraying Power Goo, DW50 or whatever else on the flange.

IMO that's not necessary. Power Lube won't hurt anything, and in any case may be easily removed with a dry rag or one dampened in rubbing alcohol. As for removing the goose neck, good luck with that. I couldn't remove the plug on mine, and didn't want to risk marring the slot. But I don't have a stuck sound box, either. I think Doug's step-by-step instructions are right on!

Posted: **Wed Jan 06, 2016 3:27 pm**

Thanks to everybody's kind help and especially Doug's detailed description of the method to remove a stuck exhibition my dad and I were finally able to get that flange off! It was an absolute pain. My dad and I were able to get the flange pulled forward but it would not pull off at first. By some great luck the pin inside the flange snapped off and we were able to twist off the flange from the tone arm. I then put on a rebuilt reproducer I had from another machine and I am now able to enjoy my new XVI until I can get the other reproducer rebuilt! Again, thank you all.

-Steve

Posted: **Wed Jan 06, 2016 3:57 pm**

Congratulations! Looks like you did a beautiful job, and best of all, without damage to the goose neck. So how does the machine sound?

Posted: **Wed Jan 06, 2016 4:06 pm**

Henry wrote:Congratulations! Looks like you did a beautiful job, and best of all, without damage to the goose neck. So how does the machine sound?

It sounds absolutely fantastic! Its sounds even better than my L door with a rebuilt sound box. Maybe that's because of the different shaped horn. Either way, I am very happy I was able to get this issue resolved.

-Steve

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