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Ronnie, I think Bill meant what does the interior of the CASE look like.

Rich Gordon

Maybe an original finish that has been given a second coat? Look very closely at the areas of the decal that have been scratched or chipped through the decal itself, showing the wood underneath. Are these areas now void of finish, showing only bare wood or the clean edge of the torn decal? Or, is there now a finish in the scratch or a coat of finish bridging the edge of the torn decal and going onto the exposed wood? The latter scenario would indicate a newer finish covering an original one.

JerryVan wrote:Maybe an original finish that has been given a second coat? Look very closely at the areas of the decal that have been scratched or chipped through the decal itself, showing the wood underneath. Are these areas now void of finish, showing only bare wood or the clean edge of the torn decal? Or, is there now a finish in the scratch or a coat of finish bridging the edge of the torn decal and going onto the exposed wood? The latter scenario would indicate a newer finish covering an original one.

It looks like there has been nothing put on that area. The only place it looks like something weird has happened is on the corner of the lid. If you click on the pictures, they will blow way up, and you can see what I am seeing.

rgordon939 wrote:Ronnie, I think Bill meant what does the interior of the CASE look like.

Rich Gordon

Bill,
The inside is green and dirty like it should be.

Photo #4 is probably the most revealing that this at least has been clear coated, and then rubbed with #0000 steel wool, or a buffing pad to give it that fine smooth satin finish. Look at the reflection of light off the lid. The coat is actually not smooth. But the real kicker is the fact that the depressions in the grain of the wood are not filled in. Originally, I believed the factories used "rotten stone" to fill in the grain to fill it in and avoid this problem of depressions in the grain that appear not to be filled with (originally) shellac.

vic-b wrote:Photo #4 is probably the most revealing that this at least has been clear coated, and then rubbed with #0000 steel wool, or a buffing pad to give it that fine smooth satin finish. Look at the reflection of light off the lid. The coat is actually not smooth. But the real kicker is the fact that the depressions in the grain of the wood are not filled in. Originally, I believed the factories used "rotten stone" to fill in the grain to fill it in and avoid this problem of depressions in the grain that appear not to be filled with (originally) shellac.

It does have a dry look. I think they tried to clean it and missed the corner of the lid? It looks right. Would it be ok to put some shine back on it? I am going to have to re-do the whole bed plate. It doesn't have any of the gold lines or tuffs left and even the black paint looks bad. Also, does and how do you remove the mandrel from the feed screw?

Amberola,

"Also, does and how do you remove the mandrel from the feed screw?"


Why do you want to do that? There should be no reason to. I believe the mandrel is soldered to the feed screw shaft. The tab on the bedplate, that hits against the pulley hub, should be all that holds the mandrel & feed screw in place when the end gate is open. To remove the mandrel & feed screw assembly, just remove the setscrew in the pulley and pull the shaft out of the pulley & upper works.

JerryVan wrote:Amberola,

"Also, does and how do you remove the mandrel from the feed screw?"


Why do you want to do that? There should be no reason to. I believe the mandrel is soldered to the feed screw shaft. The tab on the bedplate, that hits against the pulley hub, should be all that holds the mandrel & feed screw in place when the end gate is open. To remove the mandrel & feed screw assembly, just remove the setscrew in the pulley and pull the shaft out of the pulley & upper works.

I thought I had to for it to be re-nickeled, but found out that I don't. That is great because I think they are pressed on.

One thing I should mention is the Edison signature on the bedplate is a decal and not original to this machine. This decal is the 2nd-style Edison signature and has a more defined look than the 1st-style signature, which looks more like a silkscreen. The 2nd-style bedplate signature was introduced approximately in 1906.

Scott

phonohound wrote:One thing I should mention is the Edison signature on the bedplate is a decal and not original to this machine. This decal is the 2nd-style Edison signature and has a more defined look than the 1st-style signature, which looks more like a silkscreen. The 2nd-style bedplate signature was introduced approximately in 1906.

Scott

Yea, I know Scott. Someone just stuck a terrible sticker on it and like you said the wrong one. I am sending the mandrel to Rod at the Victrola Repair Shop for re-nickeling and the bed plate to Greg Cline for a complete re-do. I am going to have a small fortune in this thing by the time it's done. I just hope it don't get that over restored look. And I still have the case that needs a little work.