HMV from Calcutta - what to do?

[Henry]

Curt's method should work, depending on the fabric material: cotton will certainly pull taut, but I don't know about the various synthetics and blends. BTW, Gluing and wetting is the standard way to achieve a neat backing on framed art, where the standard material is craft paper (brown wrapping); the paper pulls taut when dry, and seals the back of the frame.

The mesh backing is useful for keeping critters out of the horn . This is possibly more important in Calcutta than in North America.

[CarlosV]

The mesh backing is useful for keeping critters out of the horn . This is possibly more important in Calcutta than in North America.

Actually, the mesh is standard in the HMV 104, 130 and 150 made in England, it is not a particularity of India-assembled machines. It certainly provided some resistance against bumps when new, but after 80 years the cloth is so deteriorated that if you try to clean it with a brush it will simply turn into dust and exhibit the ugly mesh behind it. How did I find out? by being stupid and trying to brush my own 130, at least I stopped after only a small area got darker instead of lighter.

I agree however that the mesh is not necessary if you install a new cloth, unless you are a fanatic for excruciating detail and faithfulness to the original factory configuration - in which case installing a new cloth would be a capital sin anyway, with or without mesh behind.

[snallast]

Well then putting the cloth in it´s place shouldn´t present any difficulties, thanks!!

The soundbox turns out - does, the right part of the "holder" was loose - it just turned round and round, the whole thing. It was just kept in place by the part that stuck into the needlebar. Question is: would it be possible to glue it back to where it should be? Superglue? Or maybe coldweld of som type? I guess the back part is potmetal? It would be nice to be able to keep the original soundbox. I think this part being loose is what may have caused the buzzing and the bad sound.

Another issue is the box. There I have to make a choice - the grill and the top are one colour - and the rest of the machine another. I don´t think it was made this way originally? It must have been long ago - maybe when they put that nouveau-grillcloth in that they sanded down the grill and the lid? Maybe to take away some of the visual weight the machine has, it IS a bit somber somehow? Who knows, or do you think it could have been made this way?

This machine is definitely mahogany - no?

[bart1927]

The use of matches to fix the cloth is smart, but the method used on the English 130 if I remember well is just glue. If you can use the matches to hold the new cloth it would make it easier to install, and it is reversible if the cloth sags.

Actually, it's not. When you look at the inside of the grill, you'll see a small recess, all along the edges. The cloth was pushed into that recess, and secured with a long, small strip of wood, that just fitted in that recess. Small nails were used to keep those strips in place.

These strips are an absolute nightmare to remove, if you want to replace the grille cloth. Chances are they will break into a thousand tiny pieces, so unless you work extremely careful you can't use them twice. That's probably why they used matches to keep the replacement cloth in place.

[CarlosV]

Well then putting the cloth in it´s place shouldn´t present any difficulties, thanks!!

The soundbox turns out - does, the right part of the "holder" was loose - it just turned round and round, the whole thing. It was just kept in place by the part that stuck into the needlebar. Question is: would it be possible to glue it back to where it should be? Superglue? Or maybe coldweld of som type? I guess the back part is potmetal? It would be nice to be able to keep the original soundbox. I think this part being loose is what may have caused the buzzing and the bad sound.

You solved the buzzing mystery, I think the rod can be glued back but it needs to be a very thin layer to allow the rod to remain aligned with the needlebar.
As to the box, it could be teak, but photos can be misleading. As you are redoing the grille anyway you could dye it with a dark shellack.

[epigramophone]

The case certainly looks like teak to me, which would be correct for an Indian built machine. My British built mahogany 130 had a much closer grain than this.

[snallast]

You´re probably right then about it being teak, seems a shame they´ve tinted it so dark! I´m in two minds about letting it stay two colours (the wood that is) - somehow it´s part of the machine´s history.. oh well maybe it´ll be someone else´s decision in the future. Also I´m still trying to find out it´s history and might come up with something soon.

The soundbox is now fixed and the machine sounds just great! Put a medium tone needle in and it is really LOUD and clear!!

Will get back here with a video of it playing, once the grillcloth arrives! I was going to take the motor apart for the big cleaning, but since
it´s been playing some records it´s stopped thumping and I may just let it be with the oiling and greasing. Another gramophone back from the cellar!

[snallast]

First: a thanks to everyone for all the good advice on how to bring back this machine from the cellar! I said I´d post a video of it playing when I was done, here it is. Unfortunately the microphone in the cellphone seems pretty crappy but it´s all I have access to here just now. The gramophone sounds great though!

https://youtu.be/raXmnC8LJhM

[Henry]

Looks great, and sounds terrific---congratulations! How does it sound with steel needles, I wonder?

[bulleid_pacific]

I know that this is a really old thread, but I've just replaced the grille cloth on an HMV 130 and it isn't too difficult to do well.

The grille is removed by removing two screws along the inside front of the cabinet. *Removal of motor-board and horn is not required* (I found out the hard way!)

In a nutshell:

1. Prise out 16 tiny panel pins holding wire mesh
2. Remove mesh
3. Prise out wooden stringing which retains old cloth - it will almost certainly break at the points where the panel pins went through.
4. Remove old cloth.
5. Tension oversized new cloth over back of fret using wooden strips over long edges and G cramps.
6. Use 4x Bryant and May long Cook's matchsticks along long sides to replace broken stringing - they are a perfect fit. Tap in with mallet to secure cloth along long sides.


7. Repeat with 2x matchsticks along each of the short sides. The act of knocking the matches in tensions the cloth.
8. Replace mesh and drive the 16 panel pins through mesh and matches in roughly the old positions.
9. Trim excess cloth.

Using this method an almost perfect result can be obtained. I'm about to repeat the exercise on my 104.

Certainly, no glue was used originally, nor is it needed for replacement.

Unfortunately, the recommended replacement cloth is no longer woven. I used an antique gold cloth sold to repair vintage loudspeaker grilles. The result is pleasing although in both texture and colour it is a bit different from the original.