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Re: My First Amberola

Posted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 3:04 pm
by brianu
I guess that explains - at least partly - why they painted it in the first place. it's looking great, though. what did you use to strip it?

Re: My First Amberola

Posted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 4:04 pm
by phonophan79
At least you got to keep the original logo intact too... nice job saving this machine, always nice to see the process.

Re: My First Amberola

Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 10:25 pm
by Covah
Image

Re: My First Amberola

Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 11:02 pm
by JohnM
Covah --
Google 'quarter sawn' and 'rift sawn oak veneer'. There are several suppliers for paper-backed white oak veneers. I would suspect that rift sawn veneer -- with its less extravagant grain -- is what you are after for your Amberola.

If you get serious about veneering, Google 'vacuum bag veneer press' . . . the only way to fly.

Have fun!

John M

Re: My First Amberola

Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 11:55 pm
by Covah
I think I need to try red oak. It seems to have more swirling grain. I'll need it for these projects-

Image

Now is a good time to buy Amberolas.

Re: My First Amberola

Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 12:40 am
by JohnM
They sell that, too, but I think it is rift sawn white. I could be wrong but Kentucky white oak was predominant then. Henry Ford owned thousands of acres of white oak forest in Leslie County, Kentucky for Model T wheels.

Try both kinds and see what is right.

John M

Re: My First Amberola

Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 1:25 am
by Neophone
Covah,

Great job! I'm always amazed at the beautiful work you do.

Regards,
John

Re: My First Amberola

Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 3:32 pm
by Covah
Image

Re: My First Amberola

Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 4:27 pm
by Neophone
Covah,

It's 100% improved over what it was! Job well done.

Regards,
John

Re: My First Amberola

Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 5:55 pm
by need4art
It looks Great! coming from where you started. One hint in to use back grain filler-that is what was used to fill oak grain back in the day. Shops like woodcrafters can order in quarter cut or "flame grain" oak which was most commonly used in a venieer format. Trying to match oak color is tough not only because the color has changed due to age, amount of light and finish wear but also because the base color material cannot often be found. What I do is always take the lid with me and go to a shop like woodcrafters that has a lot of stains. I also take a piece of scrap oak that from what I will use. I have gotten to know the shop owner and he lets me open the can and do a test- if it is close and lighter than were I want to go then I am on the right track. I have also purchased over time a complete set of Transdyes. These can be mixed with schallac and you can darken the finish and vary the hue by mixing the colors. I have been able to get dead on color by applying 4 to 6 layers of finish. It just takes some practice.
YOC CAN DO IT!
Abe