The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

phonojim wrote:Congratulations! I have a couple of questions about your machine: does it have the yielding turntable and what is the serial # (if you don't mind my asking)? Mine is s/n 3142 with a license date of Feb. 1, 1907. and it does have the yielding turntable. My Exhibition soundbox has a round hole, is serial #244837 and I believe that it is original to the machine.
Jim

Mine is serial number 6405, license date Feb 1, 1908. It has the yielding turntable made of cast iron.

The serial number on the reproducer is #280858 with a triangular needle hole. I took it apart today to rebuild it, including a new isolator flange, but I noticed a V stamped on the old flange. V for Victor, I suppose? I have never seen that before. The only issue with the older flange was it was a bit loose because there are dents around where the screws go in and they can't tighten up. I decided to retain the old flange 'cause it was so cool and just added a couple small washers under the screw heads that just fill the indents and allow the screws to tighten up.

The lid support is a style I've not seen before. It has several notches that allow adjustment of the lid height when opened. Pretty cool too!

Cliff

Nice machine I also have an XVI that has been restored and they play very well.. I need to crank it up a bit more than I am doing now to listen to a few new records. Tom B

Here is a tip that I use to use the old flange and make it air tight. I use black RTV Silicone Seal. You can get that stuff in any good auto parts or hardware store. Smear a bead around the reproducer back. Make sure the holes are properly aligned. Screw the flange onto the reproducer back. Clean off using a paper towel, wiping away the excess. That's how I save these cool old flanges. The silicone seal makes the reproducer air tight. It plays loud and clear. It sure beats washers and looks realistic.
Harvey Kravitz

The motor oiling diagram is for Victor Victrola and Auxetophone. Good to know. Yet another cool thing!

That's because they used the same motor.
Harvey Kravitz

That is a good idea on the silicon and reproducer Harvey. I will give it a try on a Cirola I purchased Tom B

Phonofreak wrote:Here is a tip that I use to use the old flange and make it air tight. I use black RTV Silicone Seal. You can get that stuff in any good auto parts or hardware store. Smear a bead around the reproducer back. Make sure the holes are properly aligned. Screw the flange onto the reproducer back. Clean off using a paper towel, wiping away the excess. That's how I save these cool old flanges. The silicone seal makes the reproducer air tight. It plays loud and clear. It sure beats washers and looks realistic.
Harvey Kravitz

Thanks! Good tip! Cliff

Finally found time to dig into the motor. Awaiting new springs.

Looks like a very nice example Cliff. Congrats!

Clay

Finished cleaning up the rest of the motor. Still waiting for 3 new springs.

Cleaning the governor was a real PITA. Had to remove and install the governor springs with the brake assembly in place. Is there an easier way to do that? Most of the washers for the 9 screws were missing, replaced those.