The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

I had great response at the Union show regarding this tool. I still have a few left. I may have more made if the demand is still strong.
Ken Brekke

I don't know why I waited so long to order one of Ken's beveling tools, but I'm glad I finally got around to it. This is a very nifty little tool! I've never been able to master the art of making a clean bevel, and I've wasted more than one cut-to-size piece of belting by accidentally ripping a piece of the end in the attempt. With the tool, it only took me a couple of minutes of practice with some scrap belting to get perfect, professional-quality beveled ends that mate perfectly and result in flawless joins.

I have several machines that need new belts so tomorrow is going to be fun!

Thanks to Ken for an inexpensive and very useful tool that every collector should have on hand.

SOLD Tom

Ken-

Thy say...use the right tool for the job.

Your device is awesome for beveling leather belts. I couldn't believe how well it worked. Kudos to you. Every phonograph collector/restorer should have one of these tools at their disposal.

Look forward to seeing you at Union.

Mark Albertson

Mark,
I am glad this tool is helpful to you. I have had very good feedback on it. I am looking into making more as I am sold out of them.
Ken Brekke

I believe I bought Ken's last beveling tool. It really is as good as everybody is saying. Thank you Ken!

I have made another limited quantity of this handy tool. I will have them at the Union show. Price is still the same: $30 each.
Ken

I sold a number of these at the Union show. I have some left. Please read some of the feedback on them in the previous posts. The price is still $30 plus shipping. Shipping is usually $6. This is a very handy tool to get the proper beveling on the leather belting.
Thanks,
Ken

I saw this tool at Union and it seems to save a lot of work, and gives easy, consistant results.

As for the glue, I use Elmer's carpenters glue. After the bevel is made, I apply a thin layer of glue to each of the mating surfaces. Then, let it dry and then take it to the machine and make a test fit, pulling the ends together for the proper length. Mark the end with a pen, then remove the belt from the machine. On a flat hard surface (formica works, so does a metal plate), over lap the ends so the mark lines up and apply pressure and heat from an iron set at medium. Slightly wetting the surface of one of the glue areas in advance will help the bond. With this method, I have successfully bonded overlaps that are less than ¼" long.