How does Key lock lid?

[Henry]

When I first tried to lock my XI lid, which was right after I bought it in 1980, the key wouldn't turn all the way around in the keyhole; it went only so far until meeting a resistance. Probed around a bit and found the remains of a broken off key in there! After extracting the piece, the key (evidently a replacement, but still a "V" key) turned and the lock worked perfectly. Maybe you have a similar problem??

[Brad]

Gary,

It sounds like the little wings that slide out are sticking. The lock mechanism is a single unit that sits inside a mortise in the cabinet (analogous to the old time door locksets).

Remove the two screws that hold the lock unit to the cabinet and pull the unit out (put it in the "locked" position first so you can grab the protruding part).

After you remove it, try a little WD40 or silicone spray and wiggle the fins with a small screw driver or dental pick to see if you can get them to loosen up. I believe that they are spring loaded, nothing fancy.

This does bring up an interesting question for the board:

Does anyone actually lock their cabinets? I'll start a poll

[Henry]

Brad, you've jogged my memory. That's how I discovered the broken key piece in my XI lock. So if there is anything foreign in there, what you describe should reveal it.

(I only lock the lid when visitors, especially young ones, are coming over, and occasionally also just to admire the working of the thing.)

[estott]

I lock two of my record cabinets, but not for security. These cabinets have no other latches on the door and if they aren't locked the doors swing open (the floor isn't quite level)

A related thought- I keep the doors of my Credenza closed when ever I am not using it- that grile cloth is too tempting for my cat.

[GaryLC]

Gary,

It sounds like the little wings that slide out are sticking. The lock mechanism is a single unit that sits inside a mortise in the cabinet (analogous to the old time door locksets).

Remove the two screws that hold the lock unit to the cabinet and pull the unit out (put it in the "locked" position first so you can grab the protruding part).

After you remove it, try a little WD40 or silicone spray and wiggle the fins with a small screw driver or dental pick to see if you can get them to loosen up. I believe that they are spring loaded, nothing fancy.

This does bring up an interesting question for the board:

Does anyone actually lock their cabinets? I'll start a poll

Brad,
Thanks, I wouldn't have thought of having it in the "locked" position so I can grab it! I'll give that a try.
And as to whether I would actually keep it locked....no. I just thought it was fun to get it working, and have the key!

[JohnM]

WD-40 is a piss-poor lubricant. Silicon spray, graphite dry lube, sewing machine oil -- ANYTHIING but WD-40. It is a water displacer (rust-proofer), not a real lubricant.

[Brad]

True John, But is does a better job of dissolving old hardened lubricants and removing dirt than the others do. I will use WD40, or sometime Naphtha, to loosen/remove the old gunk, then follow up with a true lubricant.

[gramophoneshane]

It probably sounds strange, but I like to boil really dirty locks in a pot of water on the stove.
The heat helps dissolve any muck, and the bubbling water helps remove it from inside. It's particularly good when you find a lock with a hornets nest or similar inside.
Once it's clean & cooled, I'll run it under the tap, shake it dry, and hit it with my butane torch to dry it out completely. Then I'll put a couple drops of oil into it, and turn the mechanism over a few times with the key to spread the oil, and soak up any excess with a tissue.
I wouldn't recommend boiling a lock that has a lacquered finish though.

[antique1973]

I have had good luck with WD-40 in cleaning pot metal tonearms and dissolving
old tar-like grease from motor parts and springs. I consider it a cleaning spray
and nothing more.

[estott]

It's fine if you wipe the parts clean afterward.