The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but when I was torch-bluing hardware I was told that using chemicals was safer to avoid over-heating the steel parts & losing the temper of the metal. After watching my kid brother (who is training himself as a self-taught blacksmith) I believe it. Heating metals until they glow changes the properties of the steel.

I should post pics. I blued the needle arm of a Columbia Analyzing Reproducer which carries a spring-loaded chuck. If I had torched it, then my BN Graphophone wouldn't be able to hold its needles in as the spring would have been annealed & lost its sproing. Anyway, while it wasn't the kind of steel that blues very well, I was able to get it looking very nice with that bluing solution.

Then again, I have also torchblued parts and liked the results. I didn't know better but they weren't all that bad looking when I finished.

VanEpsFan1914 wrote:Correct me if I'm wrong here, but when I was torch-bluing hardware I was told that using chemicals was safer to avoid over-heating the steel parts & losing the temper of the metal. After watching my kid brother (who is training himself as a self-taught blacksmith) I believe it. Heating metals until they glow changes the properties of the steel.

I should post pics. I blued the needle arm of a Columbia Analyzing Reproducer which carries a spring-loaded chuck. If I had torched it, then my BN Graphophone wouldn't be able to hold its needles in as the spring would have been annealed & lost its sproing. Anyway, while it wasn't the kind of steel that blues very well, I was able to get it looking very nice with that bluing solution.

Then again, I have also torchblued parts and liked the results. I didn't know better but they weren't all that bad looking when I finished.

You're correct. I say black Sharpie. Bada-bing. Done.

sharpee? hmmm.

ODIE3 wrote:sharpee? hmmm.

SSSHHHhhhhhhhhh...don't give away the biggest secret of this forum...

shhhh, I did that to the lead weights and then shellac'ed them. Though one lead weight still flew off and hit me in the head (ouch). It was more of a experiment while a new set was being ordered. Clearly my Eagle said "no" and hit me in the head!

ODIE3 wrote:shhhh, I did that to the lead weights and then shellac'ed them. Though one lead weight still flew off and hit me in the head (ouch). It was more of a experiment while a new set was being ordered. Clearly my Eagle said "no" and hit me in the head!

Maybe I should rethink my suggestion...or start wearing a (better) helmet.

I agree that heating screws and bolt to high temperature takes some of the temper out of them but in most cases there is not much torque involved with simple screws and I've never had a problem in 25 years.

I'm Certainly not an expert in metallurgy but did stay at a Holiday Inn Express one time..LOL

blizz

Perhaps they're not a problem now but phonographs tend to outlast what we think they should. All the machines I find usually have screws "welded" in by the oil that was supposed to ease their removal.

So yes, I kind of like leaving the temper original...but black Sharpies? That is hilarious! Also--it actually might look pretty good!

I do appreciate the ideas!!! Though seeing that I'll have to make "black/blued" screws I might as well get a new set to experiment with. I'll either ring up Ron Sitko or see what MicaMonster with EdisonDiamondDisc.com has.

I have decided to send my Eagle in for spring replacement (mine is very tired) and a complete D1 reproducer rebuild. That along with a good cleaning due to getting to the motor and some wood treatment. I've been emailing MicaMonster all morning, he knows his stuff and seems to like working on Eagles

PS: holiday inn express - been a while since I have hear that! LOL

Wyatt is a great choice, he's very skilled, to say the least.

Best,
Fran